Spontaneity. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS18

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Spontaneity has various meanings for Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and this season especially. The fashion show, with a running track as a venue, was in fact open for public and anyone could literally run the runway. The models (Zadeh’s friends-you-want-to-be-friends with like Ana Kras, Susan Cianciolo, Camilla Deterre and Mari Giudicelli) and their looks also had a sense of arty co-incidence. The signature ‘odd elegance’, as Maryam often defines, is about mixing and layering the most unexpected colour combinations and un-matchy pieces. A baby-pink dress in vichy print was transparent and neatly presented the label’s swimwear; buttoned corset was worn over another summer-y dress, but in cool mint-green; sweet polka-dots on a crop-top met with knee-length pants in beige. In case of the third outfit, I have never thought that a combo like this can be pulled off with such grace. Again, I’m obsessed with MNZ’s colour palette, because it’s so free of conventions and rules. Just like Solange, whose life performance – you see, not everything is SO spontaneous – gave audience the chills.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Curator Chic. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW17

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Guggenheim’s basement. Dev Hynes of Blood Orange playing on the keyboard. That must be Maryam Nassir Zadeh‘s runway collection, situated in New York’s art mecca and under the spell of Dev’s magical rhythms. The location and music matter would score another brand such adequate number of Instagram shout-outs, that nobody would actually care about the clothes.

But even though the scenery was truly captivating, Maryam successfully managed to let her clothes steal the spotlight. Although it’s autumn-winter season, Zadeh’s latest outing felt summer-y with bright shades of peach and minimally sultry body-suits. Checked orange skirt took my mind to a Mediterranean coast, while a long-sleeved sheer top was pure sensuality. But there were fur coats and velvet blouses, too. Maryam thrives, consistently creating the wardrobe of a sophisticated, smartly feminine woman. A specific pack of women, spanning from artists to restaurateurs, adore her. I call Nassir Zadeh’s approach ‘modern-day curator chic’ – it’s elegant, but in a daily manner. It’s comfortable, but not slouchy. Women who wear her clothes curate, whether in their creative careers or private lives.

Up to now, it’s my favourite collection of the season. Brilliant.

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