Leisure and Athleisure. Emilio Pucci AW16

February 27, 2016February 27, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Milan is in the spotlight for the last, few seasons – it’s the refreshing time, when the big houses are revisited by younger, talented designers who are likely to make the brands more commerce-wise, and contemporary. Although this can’t be fully said in case of Alessandro Michele at Gucci, who looks back at the 16th century art and 70’s legacy, Massimo Giorgetti at Emilio Pucci totally matches this description. His runway debut in September was slammed by the critics, as it felt too busy with confusing embroideries and senseless layers. However, the autumn-winter 2016 outing is much better, and not only because the designer listened to his own, creative instincts – it reflects the Pucci soul, but in today’s world. Originally, Emilio Pucci focused on lounge-wear, rather than on athleisure – but Massimo smartly touched the topic of skiing. A score in the bull’s eye, if speaking of all the zip-neck velvet pullovers and colorful après-ski pieces. Really, the skiing market is a sad place in the fashion industry, and by showing a collection filled with lovely winter wear, Pucci surely gains a clientele for the next season in this field. This collection also proves that Giorgetti feels more freedom, when using the signature, Pucci kaleidoscope prints – they are playfully exposed on his experimental silhouettes we know from his namesake label, MSGM.

Kaleidoscopic Florence. Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall’16

January 14, 2016January 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Massimo Giorgetti’s playful vision at Emilio Pucci keeps getting better and better with each season. The pre-fall 2016 collection is his third for the Florence-based, heritage brand, and it already feels like he has been at the house for a prolific period of time – this young, Italian designer mixes the signature Emilio prints in such a care-free, yet vibrant way. Massimo focused on reinterpreting the Pucci codes in a contemporary, slightly humorous way. The silk pants and shirts in blue-feather prints; bold lips pattern, which made the pleated skirts look, oh yes, bellissimo. The skiwear roots were revamped this season and hopefully, it will again be a game-stopper on the Courchevel route – modern V-neck knits, “kaleidoscope” jackets and boldly coloured fur coats looked luxurious, but not too excessive. Forget the image of a fancy lady with a freezing dog on the slopes. One thing’s sure – Giorgetti and his team at Emilio Pucci are moving in the right direction, making the brand’s season-to-season outings feel unexpected, lifey and beautifully eclectic.

#2015 – Massimo Giorgetti

December 5, 2015December 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Italian fashion has never been so energetic as it is now! The year of 2015 is definitely the year of youth for Milan. And the most evident prove is the bold revamp at Emilio Pucci, which is directed by the extremely vibrant aesthetic of Massimo Giorgetti, the designer behind MSGM.

Resort 2016 – I won’t hide it, the Peter Dundas era wasn’t ground-breaking for me at this heritage brand. His super sleek Pucci women felt so unexciting and monotonous that there is no wonder why he left the house for Roberto Cavalli. However, tfirst collection of the new creative director, Massimo Giorgetti, has something that caught my eye. It made me look at Emilio Pucci from a totally new perspective. The designer of ultra-trendy MSGM brought an eccentric vibe into the house of kaleidoscopic prints and luxury goods – multi-colour fringe coats, florals and eye-killing colour combinations. Giorgetti’s side-buttoned blouses – a nod to the signature Pucci silk scarf – sat strangely on the body, while his one-shoulder button-downs featured elongated sleeves. Giorgetti has a sense of measure about eclecticism: his women didn’t look odd, but rather like the Clueless character which suddenly appeared in Milan.

SS16 – Massimo takes us to a utopian beach-side, where everything is possible. The sailor-girl theme was reflected in various shades of blue and the meticulously embroidered fish motifs ornamented tank-tops and dresses. Dreamy and romantic, but with a modernistic edge at the same time. The accessories, which caught my eye instantly, made the cut. The colourful, leather bucket bags made every outfit look electrifying, while the feather sandals had a playful twist. Just like the plexi sunglasses. Giorgetti is the real renaissance at Emilio Pucci, and 2016 already looks like a great year for the house!

Bold Resort

November 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Resort 2016 will soon hit the stores! And what’s the best about that fact? Surely, the colour splash which will kill the November dullness. The wide range of prints, from pervert rabbits at Prada to geometric forms at Massimo Giorgetti’s Emilio Pucci revamp, the summer pre-collection for the upcoming 2016 also stunned with a great attention to the detail. Just see the first looks at Gucci to understand what I mean – meticulously embroidered dresses, lace tank-tops and floral head arrangements bring on the musings of a long weekend spent in Tuscany. In Paris, Miuccia Prada showed her other collection, for Miu Miu, which was all about a decadent party full of fur, sequins and flirty mini-dresses. Lastly, Phoebe Philo delivered an edgy, yet feminine look-book at Celine, where we’ve got some Pierre-Cardin-esque modernist silhouettes and wild, animal prints. Here is a look at fashion’s upcoming vibrance!

Emilio Pucci

Miu Miu

Celine

Gucci

Prada

Massimo’s Revamp. Emilio Pucci SS16

September 28, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Massimo Giorgetti is the creator of Milan’s most flat and, shockingly, playful brand – MSGM is the label that made Milan Fashion Week much more youthful place to come to. MSGM is also the commercial best-seller – so why not make its designer the new creative director of Emilio Pucci, an Italian house with a strong heritage and signature? Peter Dundas, the former designer of the house, moved to Roberto Cavalli (a perfect match – over-sexualised cocktail dresses at the most opulent brand I know) and now it is the time for a revamp. The “zero” collection for Resort 2016 was promising – the clothes were interesting and the codes of the house became more edgy. But what about the real, runway debut? Well, it is good. But just good. And that’s a pity because the anticipation was big. The sailor motive was reflected in various shades of blue and masculine silhouettes; the embroideries of fish and sea-shells did look precious. But it feels a bit like Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe, Nicolas Ghesquiere’s Louis Vuitton and Alessandro Dell AcQua’s No21. Modern, innovative and romantic at the same time. Even the accessories, which caught my eye instantly, didn’t help. Hopefully next season will be more clear for Massimo’s attitude towards Pucci. Now, it looks like an expensive, luxurious version of MSGM.