Men’s – Tokyo Diaries. Umit Benan AW16

January 26, 2016January 26, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

It seems that Paris-based designers feel a strong sentiment to Japan. We know Julien David’s love to Japan, as all of his clothes are made there; for SS16, Olympia Le-Tan created a feminine collection which took its references from Nobuyoshi Araki’s bondage photography and Hotel Okura’s famous architecture legacy. The Japanese story is continued by Umit Benan with his “Tokyo Diaries” collection for men. When the guests arrived to the show, a group of eight men were about to start the “nyotaimori“, a practice known in Japan which is about eating sushi off a naked woman’s body. Benan’s inspirations came from Japan – but don’t expect kimonos or anything as predictable as that. The designer had yakuza gangs on his mind – and you don’t want to mess up with these guys. The street-cast models and Umit’s friends walked the show in athletic tank-tops, judo jackets and corduroy coats with obi belts, while some had the typical, Japan-fashioned braids. The footwear changed dramatically, from sneakers to white tube socks with the toes cut out. The designer, known for his diverse collections, successfully withdrew the clichés of the Land of the Rising Sun and staged a wearable, badass collection.

Men’s – Flower Power. Comme des Garcons AW16

January 25, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

We all got used to the breath-taking and avant-garde garments for woman, which are envisioned by Rei Kawakubo‘s always surprising imagination. In case of menswear, however, the woman behind Comme des Garcons bases her ideas around classical, quintessential clothes, like for example a well-tailored suit or a leather biker jacket. In the effect, these usual pieces appear to be one-of-a-kind. For autumn-winter 2016, Rei explored the blurry borders of masculinity, and humanity, by representing an ethereal, yet dark performance of warrior-like models, who wore beautiful, floral head-pieces created by Julien D’Ys. The whole outing, which sensed like a “war and peace” manifesto, felt very emotional – there was pure sadness in models’ eyes, but supreme happiness in the bold, flower colours. Surely, the show’s meaning was deeper than a “flower-power” cliché. But flowers do cheer up our lifes. Even, when the world is becoming a very dynamic and dangerous place.

Men’s – Opera Garnier. Dries Van Noten AW16

January 24, 2016January 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ok, Dries. You win.

And it’s not only because you had the best fashion show venue, comparing to all the other designers and brands of this season. In fact, the runway was situated in one of the most important places in Paris – on Opera Garnier’s stage, from where the guests had a stunning view on the red, velvet auditorium. The Belgian designer said that he had been trying to book this place for 15 years: “Every year we applied and applied and applied, and every year they said ‘No.’ But then they said ‘Yes!”. So no wonder why the autumn-winter 2016 season seems to be extremely significant for Van Noten. The fashion industry holds two main types of designers – those who do a “show” instead of “fashion“, and those who do “fashion” but can’t afford or want to have a “show“. But Dries Van Noten is an exception – everything in his fashion show is in full, poetic symbiosis. And I tell you, the clothes from this menswear outing are as exceptional as the place they were presented in.

It all started quite calmly, with a few well-tailored tuxedos and coats. And then, then, it felt as if the Madame Butterfly appeared on the stage – the over-sized suits styled with turtlenecks; the magnificently embroidered military jackets with Belle Epoque motifs and baroque emblems; the to-die-for waisted coats with attachable fur collars made me sigh and feel the real, chronic yearning of the season. If talking of the oneiric, face embroideries, they were made in collaboration with Wes Wilson, the graphic artist who conveyed the visual expression of the psychedelic West Coast at its ’60s/’70s. There was a refreshing clash between the operatic, bohemian elegance and the “get high by the beach” skate-board guy. A kind of subverted reality.

“What is reality? What is the dream? Where does everything start and begin? So for me it was really good to be able to show here onstage and not in a room. It turns your world a little bit upside down.” Dries Van Noten has definitely staged the most beautiful (and additionally, wearable) collection up to now – but I don’t think anybody else will create a greater impression this season. A very, very high target is set.

Men’s – Irony of a Man. Yohji Yamamoto AW16

January 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto staged an elusive, but powerful collection for the autumn-winter 2016 season. The Japanese designer, who is known for his intellectual, yet sometimes difficult to understand garments, presented a collection which defines today’s masculinity. It might be an old-school, macho guy wearing a tank-top to show off his triceps; there is also the family man, who enjoys comfortable, soft knits. And let’s not forget about the boy who looks good in a man-skirt, which is basically a pocketed sheath covering a pair of woolen combats. Moreover, this meaningful collection was focused on the ironic, hand-stitched signs: “Corporate Motherfuckers” read the slogan on the back of a bumpy, cotton shirt. Then, “The only woman I know is my mother”, and “Help me I’m too hot”. Was this the next, Paris fashion week protest towards the global matters? After a wave of press’ questions, Yohji laughed, saying “It’s a kind of joke”. Whatever all of that means, this collection, based its beauty in its chaos, and in the abstract world of Yamamoto.

Men’s – Spongy Denim. Julien David AW16

January 23, 2016January 23, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien David never, but never dissapoints to deliver the most exciting fabrics and textures for his menswear collections. Spongy denim. Do you feel it? ‘Cause I do. Utilitarian jump-suits, blazers, pants, coats – I want to have nearly every single piece from autumn-winter 2016 collection, made of this fabulously durable, warp-faced cotton textile. Moreover, this collection is inspired with Akira, a dystopian anime film from 1988, set in futuristic Tokyo. No wonder why Japan, and its modernistic approach, is constantly appearing on Julien’s mind – all of his clothes, for both men and women, are manufactured in Japan. Except the sharp, aluminum spikes on models’ heads, the collection didn’t directly show the stereotypical, bold nature of anime characters; to a big extend, it was all about a comforting neutrality. And whatever they say about the prosperity and functionality of high-tech textiles, David believes denim will still rule in the future.