Who could end men’s fashion month in such unique style? Only Hedi Slimane, that leads Saint Laurent to total grunge destruction. The AW14 collection is very… hard. Some pieces are very cool, and some more affordable for a rockstar! Take the green sequin suit; or the leopard printed bomber jacket. Or even these creepers ‘on fire. Hedi knows what he wants and moves into his direction- the rock’n’roll era, that inspires him so much. If my size would be XS and I would have such skinny legs as the models here, then I would definitely love everything. But while I am certainly not, then I don’t really feel the mood of the collection. However, from the crowd of elegant suites and coats, Slimane really catches my eye from the whole fashion week from Paris… See you for Haute Couture SS14!
Menswear
Men’s: Beast. Thom Browne AW14
Thom Browne, the enfant terrible of New York have just presented his AW14 collection for men in Paris. In the grey forest full of wild animals, we met the man vs. beast fight- models wore highly tailored suits in abstract forms with bunny, elephant or deer masks, looking like creatures from fairy-tales. The collection was kept in misty grey colour, with lots of embroideries on jackets and trousers. The suites had some mis-proportions in them- too huge sleeves, to filled trousers… Nothing was normal. Not only Thom entertained us with all these illusions and tricks, but also took us to another dimension of tailorship, that he is so good in.
Men’s: Paris Chic. AMI AW14
AMI is the moment’s hottest label coming from Paris- it’s aim is to bring cool Parisian chic back to men’s wardrobe. As it’s their first runway collection (the venue was a snowy park), it was really buzzy. And not only because of the guest model, Caroline de Maigret, who wore a tuxedo in super chic way. The collection itself was fantastic, full of vibrant red colour and comfortable pieces that every men ought to have. My favourite- the totally camel look. This is a perfection.
Men’s: Comme des Garcons AW14
The Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection for AW14 was all about Hiroshima chic and apocalyptic style that this label is believing in from the beginning. The collection was (no wonder) dark and dull, although there were some pieces that are really high IQ. For example the necklace that remind suite’s collar. Or the grungy chunky sweaters with holes cut out… And the most amusing and frightening thing of this greasy collection was the hair that models had- it reminded me of “Alien” movie were these shrimp-like UFO had these long, black structures on heads. This CdG presentation is definitely not the basic one, but still, it’s fun… And spooky.
Men’s: Suite Up. Berluti AW14
Alessandro Sartori who gave a rebirth to the old label Berluti, known for the best men suits and shoes, simply nailed it yesterday at the first to date live runway collection. Elegant, comfortable suits made with the best tailoring; cashmere sweaters in warm colours; shoes made of triple layered wool and leather; and amazing camel coats are just few of the highlights. I really loved the selection of models; mature, with a specific chic in them. The way they wore the outfits (nonchalantly, a bit loosely) with gloves and huge bags was like a poetry. After discovering Berluti once again, I am already waiting for the new changes made by Mr. Sartori!
Design & Culture by Ed 