Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy always openly says that he is inspired with street style while designing new collection. And this time we went to Brooklyn, where the muscular guys play basketball, listen to rap and wear all these LAKERS tank tops. The venue of the collection was all about a basketball field, with the cyber-clock and baskets… the models wore over-sized trousers, sneakers, loose jumpers and tank-tops just like Michael Jourdan. But in more fashionable way. I don’t see anything for me, but surely this will be a hit in the stores… P.s. Mariacarla Boscono is back after her pregnancy! She was a guest model of the show and as always looked fierce…
Menswear
Men’s: Maison Martin Margiela AW14
Maison Martin Margiela did a greatly tailored collection for their AW14. Mixed with utilitarian elements, fur and leather, some artisanal vests and jackets were created, looking damn cool and practical. Then there was this amazing shirling fur jacket, black capes and radiant blue leather appearance throughout the show. The collection is contemporary, comfortable and elegant, but as well full of young, creative spirit. And the show venue was fantastic- a huge space that simply nailed it. 
Men’s: Fuchsia. Dries Van Noten AW14
So he wanted the clothes to feel old. Coats were completely dyed and then acid-washed; striped businessmen’s shirts were tie-dyed; a jean jacket was overdyed to an oily sheen; jeans were stripped with acid. And a worn khaki coat could have been vintage military. There was a feel of the itinerant tribes the U.K. calls “travellers” in these seemingly repurposed pieces. Dries Van Noten AW14 was one of the most colourful and buzzy shows of the season… And the colours were breaking the news.
Men’s: Marais. Yohji Yamamoto AW14
Yohji Yamamoto made me amazed till now after this unexpected print mash-up. The designer who was the lover of black for a decade, made the most colourful, vibrant and beautiful collection for men to date. The AW14 collection is so amazing! The clothes… so over-sized (pants, coats, shirt, blazers) and full of Parisian’s Le Marais spirit! The prints were slightly oriental- flowers and snakes where all here. But still, the black hats, interesting models with colourful hair and the attitude of the collection made it cool boheme. For now- my favourite collection for AW14.
Men’s: Nuns. Rick Owens AW14
Rick Owens, the master of darkness (and great Parisian athlete at the same time) created a new iconic collection for men that wasn’t so dark… after SS14’s Estonian heavy-metal group performance, this time we are getting seriously religious in a new, minimalistic aesthetic. The collection kept in brown, creme and black, was very sporty and at the same interesting. Models wore nun’s head covers, classical Rick Owens trainers and leather sweatpants… combined with lose unitarian vests and over sized tops. Is this the new sign of religious vs. fashion friendship? Hope so because Ricky did it in a great way.
Design & Culture by Ed 