Men’s – New Menswear. J.W. Anderson AW15

January 12, 2015January 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thankfully, during men’s London fashion weeks, we’ve got J.W. Anderson, who makes the young breed of designers interesting. Showing his collection on the second day of the fashion week, Jonathan Anderson presented his new ideas on a purple carpet made from used tires which looks pretty much amazing. As we all know from the past, women’s pre-fall and men’s fall are connected – the colour palette, the textiles and the main themes are very close. Sudden odd details abounded, like oversize collars and sleeves and buttons fabricated from metalwork (these make me constantly confused). But his provocateur attitude was tempered by immediately desirable clothes like the two-tone turtlenecks, degrade effect car coats and gorgeous, long scarves. “I like this idea of something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came from a computer game,” explained Anderson backstage of the show’s backstage. As for the clothes, they were a “mishmash of decades – I like isolating the idea of the look.” So the fabric on a coat could be from the 60s but the detailing on it from the 70s. “We were reflecting on different tribal movements and hybridising them. Is it an 80s jacket or not? Does that even matter? It’s about rejecting nostalgia.”

Men’s: Casely-Hayford

August 2, 2014August 2, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Casely-Hayford is a menswear brand which is designed by Charlie and Joe- father-and-son duo, that feels the same vibe. The British label had it’s big moment for SS15 during London Fashion Week. Their idea was to fuse classical men clothes, with artistic, a bit “slouchy” look which I really loved. The main refference? John Baldessari works, which are known for appropriation of images with colourful dots and squares. Even dough the shapes and cuts of all suit jackets and trousers were very “gentleman” like, there was nothing traditional about it. My favourite outfit? The one above, with camel mackintosh coat, over-sized white t-shirt and black, cropped trousers. The look is very easy to achieve, while it brings up sophistication and British coolness. Casely-Hayford is the label to know, gents! Caswly-Hayford is available at Dover Street Market New York, London and Tokyo, Selfridges, Barney’s, Union LA. Joyce, IT and Swank Hong Kong, Biffi Milano, Rail Brescia, United Arrows, Tomorrowland, Annan, Luis Japan and Colette Paris.

Men’s: Psych Rock. Saint Laurent SS15

June 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent always keeps his own style in his designs. And not many designer do that nowadays. The men’s SS15 entitled Psych Rock was all about Hedi’s love to rock & roll. Little Bugle Boy jacket, poncho, sheepskin vest, army surplus, embroidered jeans, amulets, snakeskin boots, garage band—rather than an unleashing of the beast of psych rock. The collection had something of beautiful gypsy escape (all these jewels) vibe, the indie rock chic and itty-bitty rodeo style (the soundtrack is a contribution from an obscure West Coast sixties-revivalist band, the wide-hatted Mystic Braves were an aural and visual complement to the new collection). I really enjoyed the whole show (and women’s was so, so good. Natalie Westling and her hot red hair combined with a black maxi dress and star sequined boots are dreamy) and I am happy we’ve got Hedi at Saint Laurent. By the way, au revoir men’s PFW for SS15!

Men’s: Fun Time. Thom Browne SS15

June 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne is possibly the biggest kid of the men fashion scene. And the SS15 is just the prove! The collection was full of colours, funny embroidery… models wore mutated suits, socks embroidered with butterflies, plastic, transparent masks and vibrant prints! In the middle of the show, there was a bunch of blindfolded models wearing classical, grey Browne smokings, taking a nap. Many things are unclear about this collection, but one thing is sure- it was a real toyland!

Men’s: Russian Skater. Gosha Rubchinskiy SS15

June 29, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gosha Rubchinskiy, Russia’s young fashion star just came for the Paris fashion week, to show his SS15 collection for men. And that’s surely something, that the Parisian fashion scene never have seen (although they had other Russians, like Vika Gazinskaya or Ulyana Sergeenko). Known for his post-Soviet, skater style and street influenced clothes, thanks to Comme des Garcons he found his place here. One of his first customers back in 2010 was Dover Street Market, which opened a corner for the post-Soviet brand in its London store, and in 2012, Comme des Garçons took on production and distribution. As he says, his clothes are made in mind for Russia’s post-1991 generation, those who grew up in the midst of a reawakening of religious roots in the post-Soviet boom-or-bust economy. For spring, Rubchinskiy showed leather jackets, fur coats, canvas shirts, skater sweatpants and silent, white t-shirts with his logo written in Russian. In my opinion, everything here is wearable, and all of it is really cool. But are these clothes so, so breath-taking?