Men’s: Jokes on Classic. Prada SS15

June 23, 2014June 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

So, what did Prada serve us this time for her men’s SS15 and women’s Resort’15? Something you would probably not think of: a pool. In the middle of the show venue, we had a 90 deegree rectangular swimming pool filled with water. A pretty perfect mood for summer, isn’t it? But all the spark was in the fashion that was presented. “I interpreted the classics. It means everything and nothing. It means what looks good for me” said Miuccia Prada backstage, meaning that for menswear, she always can do what she likes most, while for womenswear, “we always have to push, push, push.” I totally agree with her in that fact – the men’s clothes were a fresh, updated version of her 70’s ugly-chic uniforms and the sandals had this Prada mood written all over it. “It’s kind of conservative. Conservative looks more new” Miuccia added. Utah boys visiting the concrete jungle, embroidered top-stitched everything, brown leather-detailed denim and cashmere versions of charity shop knits… it all felt old, but new in a way it was a bit forgotten by people. But as it sounds typically, nothing is really normal at Prada. The exagarated stitches are just the prove! You see them everyday on your denim, but here, Prada made them in the spotlight. If coming back to the pool, there was also an irony about it. Surrounded on all sides by bleachers covered in dodgy golden-brown carpet (only Miuccia would pair that with a glittering pool) that extended to a raised runway on the water, it was a Miuccia-style take on an old summertime chestnut. “It was a joke on what’s classic,” she commented after the show. So, was that just another show? No, it was a very Prada show.

About the artist: Israeli sculptor. He adopted the name Absalon on his arrival in Paris in the late 1980s. During his short career he achieved widespread recognition for the 1:1 scale architectural models that he constructed of idealised living units. These wooden models, painted white, demonstrate an obsession with order, arrangement and containment, and have associations both of protective shelters and monastic cells.

Men’s. Hybrid. Calvin Klein SS15

June 23, 2014June 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Beige. Beige. Beige. And then a little drop of yellow; little splash of red; and the whole red / yellow / orange PVC sweatshirts appeared. That was possibly the most dynamic change of action during the whole Milan Men Fashion Week! Calvin Klein summer was a sportish collection full of casual shorts, trousers (I love the cuts) and tank tops, that went through reincarnation of their colour. “Transparency is very important to move ahead with straightforwardness and simplicity” said Italo Zucchelli, the designer. I just want to add it reminded me of Miu Miu for AW14 (these vinyl!)…

Men’s: Skinny. Saint Laurent AW14

January 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who could end men’s fashion month in such unique style? Only Hedi Slimane, that leads Saint Laurent to total grunge destruction. The AW14 collection is very… hard. Some pieces are very cool, and some more affordable for a rockstar! Take the green sequin suit; or the leopard printed bomber jacket. Or even these creepers ‘on fire. Hedi knows what he wants and moves into his direction- the rock’n’roll era, that inspires him so much. If my size would be XS and I would have such skinny legs as the models here, then I would definitely love everything. But while I am certainly not, then I don’t really feel the mood of the collection. However, from the crowd of elegant suites and coats, Slimane really catches my eye from the whole fashion week from Paris… See you for Haute Couture SS14!

Men’s: Beast. Thom Browne AW14

January 19, 2014January 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne, the enfant terrible of New York have just presented his AW14 collection for men in Paris. In the grey forest full of wild animals, we met the man vs. beast fight- models wore highly tailored suits in abstract forms with bunny, elephant or deer masks, looking like creatures from fairy-tales. The collection was kept in misty grey colour, with lots of embroideries on jackets and trousers. The suites had some mis-proportions in them- too huge sleeves, to filled trousers… Nothing was normal. Not only Thom entertained us with all these illusions and tricks, but also took us to another dimension of tailorship, that he is so good in.

Men’s: Paris Chic. AMI AW14

January 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

AMI is the moment’s hottest label coming from Paris- it’s aim is to bring cool Parisian chic back to men’s wardrobe. As it’s their first runway collection (the venue was a snowy park), it was really buzzy. And not only because of the guest model, Caroline de Maigret, who wore a tuxedo in super chic way. The collection itself was fantastic, full of vibrant red colour and comfortable pieces that every men ought to have. My favourite- the totally camel look. This is a perfection.