Men’s: Ceremony. Craig Green AW14

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Craig Green, one of the menswear designer of MAN LCM in London, showed his new show yesterday. Known for wooden structures and dyed costumes worn by men, Green changed his fashion perspective into something more ready-to-wear. His AW14 collection was all about hand-painted utilitarian coats and harness accessories. The models went down the runway in long, oversized coats, reassembling a pilgrim or something like that… The collection felt a bit mysterious and harsh. But- the clothes were beautiful. Dark, hand painted cotton robes and trousers are the new fashion ceremonials created by the fresh face of London menswear scene, Craig Green!

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Men’s: Farmer Boys. Lou Dalton

1059885The AW14 season have just begun for men in London, where the LCM fashion week is now on. The first designer to open the London Collections Man was Lou Dalton, who is known till now for great tailoring and fresh look for classical menswear. The collection was all about good-dressed farm hands with an air of punk in them. Traditional clothes were done with lots of bleaching. However, the show wasn’t so suprise-less! Some unexpected details were the pink acid dyed denim-on-denim elements and a peep of camo print. The show was a bit inspired with men who left everything behind and went on war- tradition versus something more rebellious.
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Simbolismo Religioso in Fashion

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Very soon I am going to visit Florence, the magical capital city of beautiful Tuscany! As I am now in a Dolce Vita mood, so a bit inspired with Dolce & Gabbana that may not feel so sweet life for a moment, I thought of the religious symbolism in fashion- not of this season, but from 1960 year when Cristobal Balencaiga designed his bridal dress with nuns head dressing inspired hat to Les Novices where Brigitte Bardot stars as a newcoming female nun that just don’t real know what to do and sins a lot there and there… I thought of Sevillas Santa Semanas holiday and the splendor of Vatican church that I truly love! And if Church women would wear Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2013, then it would perfectly match at Brugges nunnery. Although it all sounds very good, Kate Moss at W Magazine showed herself as a satan or a witch with sharp claws and vampire teeth… this editorial is very spooky! Just as Kristen McMenamy at opening and closing the Giles AW13 show, wearing a super scary make-up and anglican inspired gowns. As I am not really a religious person, I hope this post won’t make anybody offended. Well, it’s fashion!

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Men’s: SLIMane. Saint Laurent SS14

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The Enfant Terrible of French Fashion did it again just as he usually does- Hedi Slimane made me and all others, first of all excited, then scared, shocked and amazed in elusive way. Even, if his collections have a straight meaning, they are elusive. Hedi takes on his shows the ugliest in the world models, then put California garage band rock and roll music possibly recorded day before the show and some kind of Johnny Cash/rich boy from Las Vegas clothes. By the way, he doesn’t give a f***. I can’t say that I would wear any of these clothes (but love the shoes!) but I can’t say that don’t like the collection! It is totally different from other menswear, full of minimalism and prints. It’s as cool as AW13 womenswear for SL.
Cool biker jackets, leopard prints, gold, ties and suits. All in a very rock and roll edition, but in a more exclusive and “casino boy” look. Of course everything is extremely slim, that I personally hate (I love loose clothes) but thats totally other topic. For sure Slimane wasn’t at all in Paris while creating the collection. Los Angeles, hometown of the designer? California? It’s more about American coolness than European elegance. For this I respect Hedi Slimane as fashion designer!

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Men’s: Heavy Metal. Rick Owens SS14

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What a show was that! When Rick Owens invited Estonian heavy metal band Winny Puhh (yes, that means Winnie The Pooh), he says he felt “an instant jolt of recognition. And Estonian is such an alien language that when it’s shrieked at you by a guy in a wolf mask, it becomes major.” They had it all that Rick needed for his show- scary, sleazy and hardcore look. If you don’t know Winny Puhh, and hadn’t a chance to know what is Eurovisia in Europe then I will shortly explain that. Eurovisia is a expensive, but cheap looking TV show that is hosted everytime in different countries of Europe. It’s popular in Europe, but mostly European are ashamed of it… And it’s demolic choreography, WORST singers of the specific country and the cheap, sorrow atmosphere. So, back to Rick Owens show- that sounds very interesting and different that he took these strangers for music thing for his show. Owens’ was called Vicious. That was the spirit Owens wanted—”cheerful viciousness, viciousness with humor. I felt like doing something ludicrous and fun.” The clothes- well, in rhythm of the music the models nearly ran. “Urgent movement and fierce athleticism were the driving forces of the collection. Long-sleeve tees, close to the body, zipped even closer, over shorts…sheer diagonals, perforations, and mesh tanks revealing the flesh beneath…leather tanks flying away into long fringe, fringed leather belts…everything moving” wrote Tim Blanks. Totally agree. That was something awfully mind blowing.

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