Poison Ivy. ERL SS26

July 28, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Eli Russell Linnetz just knows what’s right in the moment. Actually, he creates the moment. Fashion’s current obsession with vintage American prep? ERL did that seasons ago, and created a contemporary playbook dedicated to that trope. Flip-flops? The shoe of the season in the Californian designer’s hands became a whole new statement. Now, Linnetz is ready to explore codes of classical menswear and (poisonous) masculinity. Argyle sweaters, cotton boxers, and grandpa-style knits all got the ERL treatment for spring-summer 2026, with deliberate proportion updates (tapering at the waist, tight at the biceps, and stretched across the chest). The relaxed tailoring could easily be an object of Aldo Fallai’s Giorgio Armani campaigns in the 1980s. But through Linnetz’s lens – literally, because he shoots all the ERL visuals – you can perceive something slightly disturbing, yet absolutely elusive about Christian and Ivy’s, the look-book’s heroes, dynamic. Christian is the king of campus, and Ivy would give anything to be around him – or be him, rather, in “The Talented Mr. Ripley” kind of way. Linnetz’s story follows Ivy as he embeds himself into Christian’s inner circle, with his admiration turning sour and then poisonous, subsequently culminating in an act of violence. Now imagine giving Eli Russell an opportunity to not only design costumes, but also direct a feature film. Cooper Koch could easily be the lead act.

ED’s SELECTION:

ERL Men’s Striped Jersey T-Shirt

ERL Men’s Indiana Baggy Jeans

ERL Cropped Ribbed-knit Cardigan

COS Eva Flip Flops

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Lived-In Quality. Aubero SS26

July 5, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ending the spring-summer 2026 menswear coverage on a high note: my top favorite (next to Prada) collection of the season coming from Aubero. Why I’m ranking it this high? It’s because it truly resonates with me, wardrobe-wise. The emerging American brand, lead by California-native Julian Louie, and its latest collection are beautifully autobiographical – yet somehow feel like home to an outsider who’s just getting to know Aubero. There’s a highly-appealing, lived-in quality to those over-sized flannel shirts, tailored “cargo” pants, and durable trench coats with delightful signs of patina. And there’s also something irresistibly sensual about the sleeveless, wrinkled-taffeta top-dress with confident open-back. Louie’s work is both nostalgic and forward-looking; his approach to material – “material festish” as he calls it, encapsulated in frayed antique textiles or scraps from past collections under mesh in one-of-a-kind coats or trousers – feels new, not Bode-ish as in case of many other new brands coming from the U.S.. Much of this collection relies on Louie’s mental souvenirs. The skirtlike wraps are a nod to the surfers he would see in Santa Cruz changing by their trucks, a clutched towel on their waists as they slipped out of wetsuits. I’m especially in awe of the all-white look consisting of a voluminous shirt and shorts with shiny finish topped over the lightweight pants. Worn with flip-flops, this look is both seductive and absolutely cool. Looking forward to more of Louie’s work.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sublime. Giorgio Armani SS26

July 5, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It seems that the new generations of designers are becoming passionate about my work, and I must say that this is a source of pride for me because it means that I can speak to young creatives who probably weren’t even born in the ’90s. This also means that the authenticity that I have always put into what I do is still reflected today,” Giorgio Armani mused after his spring-summer 2026 menswear show. As his brand celebrates 50th anniversary this year, there’s literally nothing more valuable for a designer who created such monumental heritage as being relevant and appreciated after all those decades. Italian menswear and womenswear owe a lot to Armani, and it’s good to see him being very rightfully embraced and applauded. The latest collection coming from the maestro was sublimely Giorgio, through the filter of Pantelleria, the volcanic island where he has summered for years. Matte black leather used in outerwear and everyday suiting echoed the island’s raw stone landscape, while a wide palette of marine blues and bougainvillea purples and pinks referred to the sights of Mediterranean nature that enchant the designer every single time he steps on the elusive, distant island. Dreamy and undeniably handsome were the quilted-collar jacket and double-zip gilet looks in treated linen that followed the North-African-inspired palm motif. Also especially strong were the accessories, running from wave-shaped woven rattan shoes to beautifully canvas satchels. Long live Giorgio. And kudos to Leo Dell’Orco, the long-time head of Armani’s men’s style office.

ED’s SELECTION:

Armani Prive Cuir Zerzura Unisex Perfume

Giorgio Armani Men’s Upton Double-Breasted Suit

Giorgio Armani Men’s Pleated Virgin Wool Trousers

Giorgio Armani Men’s Jacquard Swirl Crewneck Sweater

Giorgio Armani Men’s Silk Denim Effect Button-Down Shirt

Giorgio Armani Men’s Asymmetrical Lyocell Bomber Jacket

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Marinière. Officine Générale SS26

July 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

For spring-summer 2026, Officine Générale‘s Pierre Mahéo was thinking about turning the essence of Parisian style to a wardrobe ready for sea-side summer. It’s defined by pajama-inflected tailoring, with scrunched sleeves and nonchalantly rolled cuffs, but most of all, per usual with Mahéo, a deep dive into ultra-light materials, like lightweight “parachute” poplin, seersucker, and, for men’s and women’s suiting, a breezy blend of cotton and linen. In addition to the eternally chic marinière – what French wardrobe would be complete without it? – shirts were cut long enough to double as dresses, popovers had universal appeal, and swingy belts were fashioned from raw fabric knotted and fringed like a lanyard. My favorite look involved olive-green pants with pleats, styled absolutely effortlessly with a striped top, light-blue shirt, a navy jacket, and a pair of flip-flops (the footwear staple that very abruptly became this year’s prime menswear discourse). The perfect summer look is right here.

ED’s SELECTION:

Officine Générale Nanni Nylon Bomber Jacket

Officine Générale Gingham Seersucker Button-Down Shirt

Officine Générale Sophie Italian Wool Pants

Officine Générale Alex Brushed Plaid Button Down Shirt

Officine Générale Giovanni Wool Sport Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Godly. Rick Owens SS26

June 30, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

With the monumental retrospective that has just opened at the Palais Galliera (can’t wait to see it autumn!), the ritualistic, ecclesiastical fashion show that had models dive – or rather baptize themselves – in the pool of Palais De Tokyo’s courtyard, and the totemic structure that fronted the guests of the scene, Rick Owens can be easily compared to a godly entity (with a huge, huge following of loyal clients and fans from all over the world). His new collection sublimates all his divine powers. Nylon, denim, silk taffeta, leather, and flesh are the main materials at play: Owens sliced shorts, cropped and frayed jackets, and unzipped tranches of biker in order to present sections of skin beneath. A bare, sculpted chest is the ultimate Rick accessory. Fringed leather cloaks – made in collaboration with Straytukay – sat on their wearers like tattered bat wings. Dracula collared leather coats created a powerful clash with fluorescent, sequinned maxi-dresses two models wore near the finale. Two polar energies shape Owens’ work: affection for darkness and the need for vulnerability. This collection handsomely presented us an exquisite synergy.