Men’s – Gender Fuse. Raf Simons AW15

January 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons is one of those Belgian designers, that always surprise. And, again, I must admit – Raf is much better at his own label than at Dior. Here he can really experiment, have fun. “Youth on a pedestal.” That was Simons explanation of the staging of his show tonight, with its catwalk raised high above the crowd. The models wore almost-floor-length coats, gilets, that could be really analised by the editors.”I wish there could be 10,000 people here tonight,” Simons said of the warehouse on the outskirts of Paris where he staged his show. “A gathering of people, the way it was in the beginning.” After seeing this collection, I thought of first Helmut Lang collections, and Raf Simons archives. This collection, thanks to it’s gender fusing silhouettes, wild doodles placed on the coats, yellow golfs and crotchets, felt so different. Nostalgic. Youthful. Definitely that’s what Raf wanted to produce this season.

Men’s – Badass. Haider Ackermann AW15

January 23, 2015January 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I usually don’t use the word “badass”, but this time is an exception. Haider Ackermann seriously made his dark presentation not give a damn. Dandy-ish, decadent. “The idea was to be able to smell the clothes”. The models where staged on a platform in Musee Galliera, wearing slim trousers, military coats, velvet blazers, accompanied with two girls (Mica Arganaraz, I see you!). I enjoyed most the richness of fabrics, colours. It’s so typical for Haider. Also, this rock’n’roll attitude made all that gentlemen-ish mood feel lighter and more chaotic!

Men’s – Russia / China. Gosha Rubchinskiy AW15

January 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

After Walter Van Beirendock, Gosh Rubchinskiy is the second designer of the day which brings politics to fashion. This time, we leave Paris and we go to Putin’s Russia, where everything’s strongly connected with Chinese market. Presented in an old Orthodox church, the models wore SPORT sweatshirts, “ugly” white socks and soviet-Russia inspired fur varsity jackets.This entertaining collection saw street-cast models—some as young as 13—transformed into brand-hungry Russian youths of the immediate post-glasnost years, as seen through a Rubchinskiy prism. That’s amazing how Gosha found a way to critisize Putin’s political influenece in today’s Russia. Definitely, if Rubchinskiy presented his collection in Moscow, the next day he would sit in jail – the parody and sense of the whole thing seems to be very visible.

Men’s – New Menswear. J.W. Anderson AW15

January 12, 2015January 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thankfully, during men’s London fashion weeks, we’ve got J.W. Anderson, who makes the young breed of designers interesting. Showing his collection on the second day of the fashion week, Jonathan Anderson presented his new ideas on a purple carpet made from used tires which looks pretty much amazing. As we all know from the past, women’s pre-fall and men’s fall are connected – the colour palette, the textiles and the main themes are very close. Sudden odd details abounded, like oversize collars and sleeves and buttons fabricated from metalwork (these make me constantly confused). But his provocateur attitude was tempered by immediately desirable clothes like the two-tone turtlenecks, degrade effect car coats and gorgeous, long scarves. “I like this idea of something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came from a computer game,” explained Anderson backstage of the show’s backstage. As for the clothes, they were a “mishmash of decades – I like isolating the idea of the look.” So the fabric on a coat could be from the 60s but the detailing on it from the 70s. “We were reflecting on different tribal movements and hybridising them. Is it an 80s jacket or not? Does that even matter? It’s about rejecting nostalgia.”

Men’s: Casely-Hayford

August 2, 2014August 2, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Casely-Hayford is a menswear brand which is designed by Charlie and Joe- father-and-son duo, that feels the same vibe. The British label had it’s big moment for SS15 during London Fashion Week. Their idea was to fuse classical men clothes, with artistic, a bit “slouchy” look which I really loved. The main refference? John Baldessari works, which are known for appropriation of images with colourful dots and squares. Even dough the shapes and cuts of all suit jackets and trousers were very “gentleman” like, there was nothing traditional about it. My favourite outfit? The one above, with camel mackintosh coat, over-sized white t-shirt and black, cropped trousers. The look is very easy to achieve, while it brings up sophistication and British coolness. Casely-Hayford is the label to know, gents! Caswly-Hayford is available at Dover Street Market New York, London and Tokyo, Selfridges, Barney’s, Union LA. Joyce, IT and Swank Hong Kong, Biffi Milano, Rail Brescia, United Arrows, Tomorrowland, Annan, Luis Japan and Colette Paris.