Riccardo Tisci pleases me from time to time – and this collection is good. It’s spooky, artistic, haunted, mysterious… the models had their faces painted in abstract ways and all of them looked superb on that red glitter runway. The boys wore strongly embroidered varsity jackets while girls… couture. Yep. Riccardo Tisci brings haute couture back to Givenchy. And that’s just great in my opinion. Thankfully, Riccardo goes away from the commercial side, and thinks beauty and craftsmenship again!
Still not under John Galliano’s wings because of some top secret reasons, the new Maison Margiela collection for men is… well, very Margiela. When the Maison Margiela studio doesn’t know how to shock or provoke, they just splash paint everywhere they feel like, and make it all look so whatever. Painted jackets, hands, pants – I mean, that’s every art student’s daily wardrobe. The boogie nights knits with these melange psychedelic prints are artsy too. But, common Margiela – I can’t wait to see Galliano’s first ready-to-wear comeback!
Violent Darkness. The make-up faux scars on the faces. The winter guys from Yohji Yamamoto are not the ones you want to mess up with. That was a very classical collection courtesy of Yamamoto – “black says it all: don’t bother me, I don’t bother you” is the most famous quote and motto the designer cultivates each year. Black blazers, black pants, black shirts. Poetic, mysterious. And aggressive thanks to the imprint of fighting on model’s faces. Except the darkness, Yohji showed gleaming velvet suits with marble prints to make all more philosophical.
Dries Van Noten’s collections always feature some oriental motifs and embroideries. This time, he brought on Tibetan embelishments, Chinese satin and Burmese metal jewellery. The coats covered with flickering mirrors, crystals and other appliques looked so gorgeous. Just like the red sweater cover with knitted prints. There is an air of the nomad about a Van Noten collection. It’s likely something to do with the historical past in Antwerp, Belgium, once a merchant hub of the world, from where Dries started his career. The layering is on master level – khaki bermuda shorts worn over tailored pants. Tank top on a printed shirt. This ethnic mood working on me.
Let’s go straightly to the topic – Rick Owens went full frontal for his AW15 show. Why? The tank top / dresses (however you call them) has holes placed… yep, there. Although it’s not that visible on the photos, some models had their penises spotted. Well… Hussein Chalayan showed women’s pubic hair in his dresses few years ago. But that really stole the spotlight. And Rick earned the ultimate status of the 2015’s biggest provoker. I mean, I don’t see myself wearing nudity in thoes places just like Rick offers. Definitely, that might not be safe for your health! This is a big field of discussion at the moment…”Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture,” Owens said backstage. “It packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world! This was our private moment.” If talking of the clothes, most them revealed the Adam’s apple. But I thinkt that the knitted “thing” seems to look warm… and surely cold-defending.
Design & Culture by Ed 