Calder’s Necklaces

July 18, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Anjelica Houston wearing Calder’s necklace, photographed by Evelyn Hofer for The New York Times in 1976.

Browsing The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s digital archives can bring so much joy. I knew that Alexander Calder induldged himself in making one-of-a-kind jewellery when not creating his hanging installations, but I never actually saw his necklaces. Calder produced more than eighteen hundred pieces of jewelry, most of them between 1933 and 1952. Many of these pieces were made specifically for family members or friends and given away on special occasions. Each necklace, bracelet, ring, pin, or earring was a unique, handcrafted design to which he applied his skills as a metalworker and his visual wit, just as he did when he created mobiles and bent-wire sculptures. The necklaces below were made by hammering brass wires into flat strips and then fashioning them into a linear design that relates directly to his early wire portraits. Incredible, wearable works of art.

All photos via The Met’s digital archives.

Comme Des Garçons at The MET

May 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Autumn-winter 2000

Today, Rei Kawakubo‘s revolutionary and incomparable contribution to fashion will be honored at The MET ball, ahead of the exhibition opening this Thursday. Only the second show dedicated to a living designer in the institution’s history (the first was Yves Saint Laurent in 1983), it’s a testament to the radical experimentation with garments of the 74-year-old, whose dedication to ‘the art of in-between’ has earned her a cult fandom. Forget the celebs, who I doubt will wear any Comme Des Garçons with passion tonight (really, don’t make me laugh, Katy Perry). Here are my seven alternative red carpet looks, coming straight from Kawakubo’s universe.

Autumn-winter 2012 – This collection shaped my love for fashion. That’s a fact.

Autumn-winter 2017

Spring-summer 2015

Autumn-winter 2016

Spring-summer 1997

Spring-summer 2017

All collages are by Edward Kanarecki, the author of the blog.

Charles James.

May 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Charles who?” was the general reaction when the Metropolitan Museum of Art announced that its next fashion exhibition, opening May 8, would be Charles James: Beyond Fashion. No, the designer, who worked from the twenties through his death in the seventies, is not as infamous as the punks or as well known as McQueen—but he’s no less important, fascinating, or even exciting. James, a flamboyant character who, born in England, spent his most productive years in New York, was, along with Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, one of the most forward-thinking, innovative designers of his time. You have him to thank for the cupless bra, the puffer coat, and that zipper in the back of your evening gown. The designer was best known as a master of sculpture—instead of fitting to a mannequin, he would craft epic forms, inspired by his background in millinery and architecture, and structure his gowns around them.”

Modern. Prabal Gurung SS14

September 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Prabal Gurung shocked New York with one thing- he did really shock! This SS14 collection is a masterpiece. It’s like a one big Picasso painting- ubstract, surrealistic and modern! With a runway covered with aluminium foil, the models “phress off the runway” in amazing leather skirts with colourful prints and amazing Zana Bayne custom made leather lingerie under these beautiful shirts… This season at PG was very lady-like (the forms, dresses, coats) but totally modernized with mesmerizing embroiderment Prabal detailing! There was a lot of discreet transparency in the skirts and blouses, which made the models look feminine within all these killing prints… After boring gowns and routine holograms, Gurung certainly did break his limits!

“PRABAL GURUNG has always taken the notion of a powerful woman seriously (see: sharp tailoring, bondage detailing, harness belts, etc.), and this season will be no different. For Spring ’14, Gurung collaborated with New York-based jeweler Chris Habana on a covetable collection of tough-chic, striking statement pieces, such as acrylic-adorned armor rings (which debut exclusively here) and razor-embellished ear cuffs. “What initially drew me to the beauty of Chris’ designs is that they are so raw yet painstakingly crafted,” Gurung told Style.com. “My heart lies downtown and his work reminds me of the glory days of New York, particularly the East Village, which was the underground epicenter of creativity.” Style.com exclusive for the new season jewellery at PG!

If Mendini was REI.

August 4, 2013January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday in the evening I was viewing my old photographs from New York, just you know, for pleasure. But pleasure changed into inspiration. I found a small pic of a Mendini sculpture that is located in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The colors, shape just stunned me. I was like, Oh my this Alessandro Mendini things is amazing. I took out my book about this designer that I bought in NY, and was like again, Oh my this is incredible. Yes, Alessandro Mendini is a amazing designer from Italy, that was not designing anything functional but just beautiful and experimental. He used some extraordinary creatures on his furniture and strong colors everywhere! He was bored with our grey existence, and decided to do something nobody else before. But, now, you for sure ask a question, why is a Comme des Garcons AW13 show snap doing on this post? Because my quirky imagination thought of this crazy collection and Mendini’s designs together! Rei Kawabuko is Comme des Garcons designer from the beginning, and her clothes are like a origami- always aesthetic and sophisticated. This season was about making a mascuine jacket an origami. Sounds strange. But as you see, looks great! And the prints plus forms are so similar to Mendini’s! Wow!