Good To See You Back. Zanini AW19

March 1, 2019March 1, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marco Zanini, how good to see you back! This truly talented designer of Italian-Swedish origins had his stints at Rochas (those were truly brilliant seasons comparing to today’s state of things at the brand) and Schiaparelli, then did a few capsules for Santoni, and disappeared from the radar for a while. Now he’s back, better than ever, completely free, with his own namesake brand – Zanini. What it’s like to be on your own? “Finally, independence!” he told Vogue. “Of course, it’s a gamble, but this way feels more conscious, more authentic.” Zanini is thinking small, and proudly so – two collections per year, well-edited line-ups, quiet showroom presentations. But sometimes, less is really more. His debut collection can be described in one term: exquisite. Beautiful, beautiful tailoring and coats that you will make you drool. Cozy knitwear and beanies made in collaboration with his sister, Miki Zanini, who’s an avid knitter. The designer was in Japan last summer, and he came back with kimono silks that he’s cut into seamless bias dresses, airy and laid-back, but surprising with their construction. He can produce them in limited editions of two, a small number, but true to Marco’s intimate approach. “A lot of us are looking for something special, not overexposed.” That’s a fact. At a first glance, you might say that Zanini is the Milan alternative of The Row – one-off, logo-free, top-notch quality garments. But comparing to the Olsens and their uncompromising minimalism, Marco’s brand radiates with warmth and tactility. Summing up, Zanini is one of the best things I’ve seen in Milan this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – The Heart Still Beats. Prada AW19

January 14, 2019January 14, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

If there’s a designer you can count on, it’s Miuccia Prada. For two reasons. She will always deliver intelligent, multi-faceted fashion. And will take a grip of the contemporary matters like no other. Her men’s autumn-winter 2019 and women’s pre-fall 2019 was a dark outing. Well, why would it be optimistic? Today’s world is a bad place. Europe suffers from the rise of rightist governments. There are absolutely no reasons to be happy with Trump, just as with Macron, Brexit and Putin’s actions over Ukraine. Paweł Adamowicz, the liberal mayor of Gdansk, Poland, was brutally stabbed yesterday at a charity concert, and his death is all over the news today. Of course, mentioning such politically-charged tragedies next to fashion might sound completely out of one’s mind. But not in case of Miuccia, who acknowledges the world as it is and wants her viewers to be, at least, aware.

While military elements often come as fashion fads, the ones that appeared at Prada looked serious. They are the brand’s codes since the 90s – if you’re an observant Prada fan, you will have this raw, defiant ‘image’ in your head. Some of the models looked vulnerable with their pale torsos exposed. Others seemed to be even invisible in their grey, loosely fitted suits. The big crotchet heart, attached with a safety-pin to the blazers, was a simple, but beautiful metaphor of a heart that’s still beating, yet insecure and… terrified. “Basically it had to be a romantic show. And mainly I was interested in the understanding of humanity: weakness and the more delicate and naked aspects of humanity also. The rejected… It was set against a very tough world—that is why war and military was in the air,” the designer explained. Of course, there were – at a first glance – brighter details that made the collection digestible from a solely visual perspective. Which is completely understandable, as it’s a Prada fashion collection, after all, not a poetic Ann Demeulemeester line-up from the early 2000s or some soft of art performance. Although, I guess, Miuccia might wish for having that freedom. “To make it not boring and for the fashion – because fashion has to be light somehow – we borrowed the symbols of trashy horror movies. From ‘Frankenstein’ to ‘The Rocky Horror Picture Show’ and all those movies. Frankenstein is the example of the monster with a big, big heart who searches for love.” The heart’s still beating.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s- So Good. Marni AW19

January 13, 2019January 13, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

If I had to (or rather, could!) choose one brand to wear on the daily, forever, I would instantly pick Francesco Risso‘s Marni. Maybe it’s the designer’s exquisite skill of creating the most wild colour palettes and print clashes. Or, it’s all because of the distinct silhouette the Marni boy likes to wear: XXL moleskin blazers, floor-sweeping wool pants, equally long, fringed scarves… OR, it’s Risso’s personal, arty aura that oozes in his poetic descriptions of the collections, in his way of dressing and even on his Instagram. I really don’t know. But somehow, no other menswear designer resonates to me as much as him (except for Haider Ackermann, but I’m afraid his slim-fit trousers and rockabilly vests aren’t really my sizing…). For autumn-winter 2019, the designer does wonders with knitwear, having a sweater worn underneath a cardigan, or a chunky jumper thrown over a loosely fit suit. The outerwear, kept in bold colours, is impressive too – want that leopard coat and red anorak so badly. While Marni seems to be off-the-radar with magazine editorials and, thanks God, #influencers, it’s visible that Risso’s stuff keeps selling well: new boutiques keep on opening, and all the on-line stores are stocking up with the brand every season, from the commercial pieces to the most eccentric ensembles. Glad to see Francesco being in the right place, working in his way and with his energy.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Creative Process. Marni SS19

September 24, 2018September 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marni by Francesco Risso is playful, that’s one thing. Second thing is that Risso lets his clothing talk for themselves – and that’s a rarity in Milan (except for Miuccia Prada, who’s been Francesco’s boss for a few years when he worked at Prada). Those aren’t just dresses, jackets and a bunch of accessories. Every single piece is a story. Whether we’re speaking of a bustier dress with an one-of-a-kind collage print or a necklace so eclectic that it reminds you of Iza Genzken artwork, Risso tells fashion tales that are neither minimal or opulent – two poles that seem to simplify today’s fashion in to two camps. For spring-summer 2019, the creative director as well developed this idea of creative process, and finding the right moment to stop working on something. He explained that in a further way backstage of his show. “It started with the process of the work in the studio, and thinking of it as a painter’s canvas, which keeps changing and modifying in the trials and mistakes – suddenly, that becomes the work itself”. His Marni seems to be experimental, but not over-pushed to look too arty. And simultaneously, each of the garment is wearable and suited for the daily life. Nothing proves that more than the diverse casting of models, of different shapes and life paths. I guess Marni is the collection from Milan I will surely look back at more than once this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

65 Years. Missoni SS19

September 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Missoni‘s spring-summer 2019 collection happened to celebrate 65 years of the brand. That’s what you call an anniversary! The show was held outdoors and Michael Nyman played a piano recital just a few steps from the runway. Angela Missoni‘s collection was typically… Missoni: light knits, patchwork dresses and the signature zigzag pattern were all over the line-up. The colour palette was earthy and calm. Shortly speaking, the collection was full of warmth and felt properly grounded. Just like the brand’s reputation that hasn’t changed at all, throughout all those years. Missoni is relevant. Missoni is suited for life (whether it’s a very Italian garden party you’re invited to, a long and tedious travel or a romantic walk down the sea-side). And, what’s most surprising in today’s fashion industry, it’s independent. That’s how you pass the test of time.