Classics. Salvatore Ferragamo SS19

September 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the second season at Salvatore Ferragamo for Paul Andrew (who does womenswear) and Guillaume Meilland (menswear), and it seems that the two are a perfect match for this Italian, heritage house that specialises in leather goods. The designers, who gracefully coordinate their roles in order to create a harmonious image of the brand, prove their integrity with this grown-up, well-considered line-up. From the casting (Stella Tennant opening the show, Carolyn Murphy closing) to the colour palette (neutrals, like sun-kissed beige and khaki, contrasted with bright turquoise or orange), it’s all about classics. There’s shirting; there’s gorgoeus outerwear; there’s evening wear that stuns with craftsmanship. Menswear is equally good – we’ve got absolute essentials like trench coats and elegant pants, all refined and kept in a loose fit. The footwear and bags (the stuff that Ferragamo sells the most) are as well refreshed. Somehow, after all these years, you want to enter the brand’s store and take hold of their goods. Paul and Guillaume, bravo!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Duality. Prada SS19

September 22, 2018September 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I wanted to break the rules of the classic,” Miuccia Prada said after he spring-summer 2019 show. “To discuss a wish of freedom and liberation and fantasy, and, on the other side, the extreme conservatism that is coming—the duality out there.” Prada had a crisp white shirt topped with an elegant sweater. Then, a portion of cycling shorts, duchesse satin A-line tunics and baby doll dresses. Again, something more mature – knee-length socks and heels. Plunging bodysuits in bold, retro patterns with straps under the breasts oozed with youth. That was a collection of contrasts, especially in body exposure and lengths. But it was also a dilemma between formal dressing and dressing freely. The closing look – a dress that looked like a t-shirt and a richly embellished skirt – was like a hybrid, blurring the lines between the daily comfort and glamorous occasion-wear. But it’s also worth noting that Miuccia creates fashion for women, designed by women. Other than the ready-to-wear, the designer invited three female architects – Kazuyo Sejima, Elizabeth Diller and Cini Boeri – to design unique accessories out of the signature, Prada nylon. Whether it’s a pillow-y ‘yooo bag’ from Sejima or a tent-like coat by Diller, expect the most innovative garments of the season coming from that incredible collaboration. As usual, Miuccia treats us with mindful, intelligent fashion.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Connected. Jil Sander SS19

September 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the third season at Jil Sander for Lucie and Luke Meier. And actually, it’s the first time when I’m convinced that they’re the right fit for this brand. This designer duo always highlight that Jil Sander isn’t what many people have in mind – an image of stern, cold minimalism. Sander’s work was minimal, true, but it rather turned towards tactility, comfort and a certain connection between the garment and the body. All that was beautifully presented in Meiers’ spring-summer 2019 collection in Milan. There were those boxier, slouchier pieces (like the pistachio shirt with exaggerated cuffs) and more feminine pieces (take the flowing, knitted dresses or the black, ankle-length skirt with hand-sculpted frills). The accessories game was exceptionally good this season as well. XXL bags (held upside down); platform sandals; jewellery that looked like wearable sculptures. It’s worth visiting the nearest Jil Sander boutique this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Dessert. Marni AW18

February 26, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Franceso Risso embraces individuality like no other at Marni. Here, at the the most conceptual, Milan-based brand next to Prada, he distorts volumes, combines the most unlikely (peacock feathers as earrings! felted coats made from compressed, recycled textiles!) and has… fun. I bet a word like ‘trend’ doesn’t exist for that immensely talented guy, who can do lady-like cat prints and equally chic plastic wind coats in one collection. I loved everything about this collection, from the heavy dose of bold colours and stylishly cumbersome totes to the bubble-like pumps and 30s-isnpired dresses made, or rather classed, from contrasting materials. Undoubtedly, it’s Milan fashion week’s dessert.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Restart. Salvatore Ferragamo AW18

February 25, 2018February 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Actually, when was the last time you’ve heard from Salvatore Ferragamo? To me, as to most of the editors, insiders and potential customers, the Italian brand seemed to have lost its identity long, long time ago. What does Ferragamo stand for? Does it even matter today?

Fortunately, the brand didn’t end as another ‘Made in Italy’ label with airport stores, even though the verge was very near. Paul Andrew, whom you might know for his namesake footwear brand, and Guillaume Meilland (Ferragamo’s menswear designer) joined forces to create an impressively consistent, chic and, most importantly, covetable collection of autumn-winter essentials. Leather and silk foulards are Ferragamo’s biggest codes, that’s why the collection was filled with incredible suede coats, ostrich leather boots and dresses covered in archival prints. The tailoring, for both men and women, was powerful as well. Katharine Hepburn, a Ferragamo fan of the past, and her style influence were obvious – a crisp shirt, a blazer, a perfect pair of pants. It’s important that the designers develop the new Ferragamo by embracing the brand’s heritage. Even though some pieces, like the big poncho or belted maxi-dresses, felt very Phoebe Philo, that isn’t the collection’s drawback. Quite opposite – those who will not find themselves comfortable in the Hedi Slimane-era Céline should switch for Ferragamo (which you might have never expected!). Bravo!