The Cabinet of Couture

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“A cabinet of curiosities was an encyclopedic collection in Renaissance Europe of types of objects whose categorial boundaries were yet to be defined. They were also known by various names such as Cabinet of Wonder, and in German Kunstkammer (“art-room”) or Wunderkammer (“wonder-room”). Modern terminology would categorize the objects included as belonging to natural history (sometimes faked), geology, ethnography, archaeology, religious or historical relics, works of art (including cabinet paintings) and antiquities. “The Kunstkammer was regarded as a microcosm or theater of the world, and a memory theater. The Kunstkammer conveyed symbolically the patron’s control of the world through its indoor, microscopic reproduction.”[1] Of Charles I of England’s collection, Peter Thomas has succinctly stated, “The Kunstkabinett itself was a form of propaganda”.[2] Besides the most famous and best documented cabinets of rulers and aristocrats, members of the merchant class and early practitioners of science in Europe also formed collections that were precursors to museums.” Wikipedia about Cabinet of Curiosities…

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The Valentino Couture show was a poesy of fashion and art. No more to write, but just to ply your eyes with beauty by Pierpaolo Picciolini and Maria Grazia Chiuri!

HC: ATELIER VERSACE AW13

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Naomi Campbell walked down the runway like only Naomi can, in a jacket held together with crystal hooks and eyes. Underneath she wore a black lace bra, inspired with Madonna, and she was flashing a substantial swath of upper thigh. That was amazing. The icon in pretty new, fresh form, was mind blowing. The collection of Atelier Versace by Donatella Versace was all about bright past. First of all you need to know, that Donatella is recreating only two years, after a long break when Gianni died. This is like a renaissance. I should say, that for real Atelier Versace is now and then two much better than all these Chanel and Dior Haute Couture… All the Sergeenko’s, Valli’s, Jarrar’s need to hide and will never be as good as Atelier. Gianni is dead, but Donatella lives, and she really makes the label up. This is fantastic. I love it. Really.
This collection wasn’t about shitty minimalism but is propagated by Dior, or cheap looking wedding dresses by Chanel. The details- crystal hooks, fur, amazing tailor ship, best quality. And a cat suit that plunged down to Lindsey Wixson’s navel was paneled from lace, net, and handwoven leather. That piece was the least thirties-ish of the lot, but all of the models wore real diamond jewelry designed by Versace. I feel the Gianni spirit here!!!

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Men’s: Prada’s Idealogy

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“Questioning the cliche of the exotic, the cliche of the perfect summer- of impossible happiness” Miuccia Prada said in one of her very elusive comments after her Sunday Milan men’s show for S14. The wild and awesome muraks around the runway- in red, yellow and green- meant something more than a extra ordinary decoration. There was this helicopter flight sound around. The models in flower printed jackets were up to no good.
As the mysterious businessmens were walking around, holding some Shanagaim postcard like bags that looked creepy. These weren’t some kind of Gaugin flowers- the architect Rem Koolhaas and his OMA organization, described the set as “menacing paradise”. But who wouldn’t love to li e here? Clothes are rich and fresh, full of desire? There is nothing new about Tahitian shirts which Prada used before. There is still this allure feeling. It’s all about the rich mans that colonised Vietman and used their goods for them. Well, you’ve got to be imaginative to give such a dense and realistic idealogy…

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💃 Lady-Like 🐅

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The Lady trend takes a new hold through few last seasons with modernity and minimalism! And what is the new fashion object of a modern lady? No, not Jay Gatsby. A furry scarf or coat! What amazed me was the most lady like label is… Celine! Through lots of seasons, Phoebe Philo used I think the biggest amount of fur in her beautiful clothes! Prada in SS11 did a crazy thing with furry scarves- stripey print and lots of colours! This AW season Marc Jacobs used fur in a mature way- these accessories together with the gold gowns would be right thing for Gatsby woman…

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Pictures: from left to right: 1. Jean Paul Gaultier Pre Fall 13 and The Row Resort 14, 2.,3. Prada SS11, 4. Celine Pre-Fall 11, 5. Marc Jacobs Resort 14, 6. Lanvin AW13, 7. Marni AW13, 8. Celine Pre Fall 10, 9. Marc Jacobs AW13

No Muses at Prada

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This is what Miuccia said. That’s true. Who need muses? All women are muses for Prada, not only one, skinny starlet that doesn’t know how to count to three! The AW13 show is the best example of this what Prada thinks. Sexy dresses with cut shoulders, aviator sunglasses, 50’s red skirts, fur and heavy boot. This is the new “naive” girl of Prada. It’s sweet in own way but at the same time super sexy- the models had wet hair that were very hot… That’s the new beautiful “ugly chic” Prada presented many years.
P.S. Something about Prada is going to happen in May on my blog… Be tuned!

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