The moment Miu Miu released the teaser starring Polish director Małgorzata Szumowska – riding a forklift through a cargo container yard and drilling into concrete with a mechanical hammer – it was clear: the vibe was shifting. Gone were the playful notions of bourgeois ladylikeness; in came a femininity that was raw, rough… heroic.

Of course, some might raise an eyebrow when Miuccia Prada cites workers and factories as her inspiration while creating garments that cost thousands. The gesture could easily be read as tone-deaf. Yet Miuccia – and Lotta Volkova, the stylist behind Miu Miu’s golden era – handled those nuances with an intelligent, thought-provoking subtlety. In her teenage years, Signora Prada was a communist – but one dressed in Yves Saint Laurent. This collection perfectly captured that paradox, without mocking the working classes, and handing in a new brick to the vast definition of “chic“.

Seeing Soviet-inspired aprons, floral wrap-over housecoats (a little nightmare for any Eastern European!), and domestic smocks on the runway – styled as evening dresses or layered under no-nonsense, thick-canvas jackets – was an unexpected moment of power, a tribute to the tireless providers. It also made me think of Mrs. Bożena, who runs my local vegetable shop, wearing her blue housecoat every single day at work. I showed her the collection on my phone today. She smiled – and said she absolutely loves it.

Forget capes. Real heroes wear aprons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!