Stranger By The Lake. Prada SS26

June 27, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mini-lengths and hairy legs. Peggy Guggenheim-inspired hats. Wallpaper prints and oversized florals you can spot on sciuras’ dresses in the Italian buses. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ latest menswear collection feels like a vibe shift: instead of regality and sophistication, or a sharp take on the Prada uniform, a collection so straightforwardly joyful it’s nearly suspicious.

Nothing conceptual: more of an instinctual approach to summer dressing. Even fashion’s biggest brains need a season off, a mind-vacanza of sorts. “This has been the easiest collection I have ever done”, said Simons. Signora added: “Everything worked with everything.” There’s just something absolutely irresistible about a vintage-y t-shirt (with a seductive “Last Swim” print – the romantic thriller of “Stranger By The Lake” comes to my mind immediately), paired with cropped, aged leather jacket and tailored pants in colour-block shade. Or a simple, chic, all-white look. One of the boys looked both naïve and cool in a mini-length shirt-tunic, styled with a red raffia hat and a pair of flip-flops.

I can totally picture new Prada menswear on myself. All of it.

ED’s SELECTION:

Prada Men’s Re-Nylon Snap-Front Jacket

Prada Men’s Shuffle Leather Double-Monk Strap Mules

Prada Men’s Sartorial Linen Pants

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femininity is Fun. Miu Miu AW25

March 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miu Miu was delicious. Delightful! This season, Miuccia Prada mused about the accessories of femininity – bras, furs, brooches. Are they relevant today? Do they lift up? At her reductionist Prada collection, she seemed to turn her back to anything superfluous. But at Miu Miu, the frivolous, younger sister, she seemed to fully indulge in all the “feminine” ornaments that in the end of the day bring utmost pleasure. With a cast consisting of Sarah Paulson and Lou Doillon, and Lotta Volkova’s phenomenal styling, the collection remixed different decades that shaped what’s affiliated as feminine today. 1920s flapper silhouettes accented with very-retro caps. 1950s knee length satin lingerie dresses (with the bra peaking out!). 1980s uptown power-looks, smoothed around the edges and completed with Deeda Blair’s hairstyle. It might sound like a lot, but the overall effect was absolutely Miu Miu. And it reminded us that fashion can be truly, truly fun to play around with.

ED’s SELECTION:

Miu Miu Short-Sleeve Cashmere Sweater

Miu Miu Intarsia Logo Cashmere Briefs

Miu Miu Leather Lace-Up Moccasins

Miu Miu Shearling Collar Oversized Jacket

Miu Miu Rose Print Knee Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Chic Wrongness. Prada AW25

February 28, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

The beautiful wrongness of Prada.

Messy hair (THAT autumn-winter 2009 girlie is so, so back).

Dress to big. Sack à la Cristobal.

Don’t care about the creases. Who cares about ironing? She certainly doesn’t.

Just as she doesn’t care about the norms.

Fuck the industry.

Fuck the expectations.

Challenge the (pre)conceptions of beauty.

The body is (un)seen.

In a homo-sapiens-chic faux-fur shawl.

Rough, crude leathers.

Primary instincts meet baby-doll.

“We just talk about which clothes make sense now,” Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons said.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Homo Sapiens Chic. Prada AW25

January 20, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

As the world is in flames and the U.S. is entering the second presidency of Donald Trump, it seems we’re jumping from one dystopian vision… to another. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aren’t pretending to have all the answers like they once did. But they surely know how to dress men in this strange, strange world.

Crude furs. Rough cuts. Bare chests. Primary instincts. The return of homo sapiens chic. This is what Prada is for autumn-winter 2025. “It is a bit of an answer, as always, to what is happening. So we have to resist with our instinct, and our humanity, and our passion, and our hands in a world that is becoming so conservative,” the Signora mused.

Nothing is ever obvious with these two. But this season, the designers are offering somewhat obvious building blocks for a man who isn’t certain of tomorrow. Anorak puffers, slightly over-sized tailoring, very heavy knitwear. But there’s space for beauty, that little sparky thing that makes us human. A pink flower-brooch tucked into a jacket’s label, for instance. Or the wallpaper print ornamenting the surface of a barely-there t-shirt, worn by a modern-day Narcissus.

Keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

R.I.P. David Lynch.

ED’s SELECTION:

Prada Men’s Spazzolato Triangle Logo Penny Loafers

Prada Men’s Velluto Coste Corduroy and Suede Gloves

Prada Men’s Oxford Dress Shirt

Prada Men’s Relaxed-Fit Washed Denim Jeans

Prada Men’s Cotton Moleskin Jacket

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Girls (And Willem). Miu Miu SS25

October 3, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miu Miu‘s spring-summer 2025 collection was a post-post-modern collage of various notions of femininity, seen through the lens of Miuccia Prada‘s absolutely distinct Miu-isms. This girl was certainly interrupted – the Miuccia way, with styling help of Lotta Volkova. To start, there were underthings worn as outer things, such as white cotton slips; some had graphic sequined embroideries. Sporty track separates and cutout bathing suits were also in the mix, along with private-school uniforms 1970s-ish geometric prints lifted from a spring 2005 collection (that’s the thing about Prada: 20 years later, her concepts feel like new). It was a wild juxtaposition of things that don’t belong together yet somehow work together. Western belts and waitress dresses, well-worn shirting and sporty bikini tops… but in the end, there was method to this chaos. And then you had Willem Dafoe closing the show.