Back from Italy and back to the journal. Now it’s the time to catch up on all the shows that took place during the end of June / beginning of July couture week in Paris. Miu Miu is first up, and it’s not even couture (although it had more flow and fantasy than some of the biggest haute players – Dior and Chanel, I’m looking at you).
Oh boy, we didn’t have a show like this for a while! Miuccia Prada‘s fashion spectacle was staged in the lobby of The Regina Hotel, and you surely know thanks to Instagram and all that Uma Thurman, Stranger Thing’s Sadie Sink, Chloë Sevigny and Gwendoline Christie all walked the show. But there was Naomi Campbell and Rowan Blanchard too, as well as Miu Miu’s classic pack of models, from Adwoa Aboah to Lily Nova. With Madonna’s sensual Justify My Love as the soundtrack, the collection featured everything that’s glamour: feathers, coat-dresses, leopard spots, chic fluffy flip-flops. But the presence of Roman Polański in the front row suggested also another, darker plot twist behind the collection. Rosemary’s Baby seemed to be written all over the line-up, noting the sheer nursery dresses and Lucan Gillespie’s very Mia Farrow haircut (done spontaneously, just before the show). The collection, in overall, is refined and mysterious, but joyous and carefree. Aren’t those Miu Miu’s all-time credentials?
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
This season, I had a dilemma whether to skip the menswear season, or not. I honestly felt exhausted at one point with all the collections, lookbooks and shows coming up, and getting grip of what’s winter and what’s summer. And in case of menswear, I was especially appalled with the fact that every designer considers spring-summer 2019 to be a full-on sport trend. And everyone has a pair of ‘some’ sneakers, just to be like Balenciaga with their top-selling Triple S (which, by the way, is everywhere, and I can no longer look at)! But when I was quite sure I won’t write anything about men’s this time (plus the 69% of voters on my Instagram poll said ‘skip the season and chill!’, partially consolidating my decision), I couldn’t ignore those two collections coming from Milan. Marni and Prada, you’re very good to boys this season I must say.
What I love about Francesco Risso‘s Marni is his haphazard, yet appealing ‘collage’ way of doing things. The designer was thinking of vintage sportswear. Staged in an old carpark, guests sat on bouncy exercise balls, while the models’ (plus-size guys, elderly men and the designer’s friends) outfits were reminiscent of a football fan 70’s style, with retro polo shirts, check trousers and deconstructed varsity jackets made of different textiles. From yellow tank-tops to striped, knitted culottes, there’s lot to love in Risso’s latest collection. Note the prints – Florian Hetz’s photos of naked bodies and Betsy Podlach’s paintings of human beings were used on the back of the shirts and many other pieces.
Miuccia Prada also had something to do with sportiness, but not that much. Here, her intelligence and profoundness emanates in every piece of clothing. For the fashion show, inflatable, pink stools by Verner Panton – an exclusive re-edition of the 1960s piece, produced by VERPAN for Prada – were used as the guest seats. If talking of the clothes, Prada constructed a dialogue between male sensuality (ruffled shirts, very short shorts, florals) and utility-wear (lots of nylon and padded trappers we’ve seen in Miuccia’s resort show in New York). All that mixed with boldly printed sweatshirts and zipped jumpers. I definitely like this certain dynamism that was perceivable throughout the collection.
But the rest of menwear… well. Let’s see if Paris will be better. Quite exicited for Jacquemus’ first menswear collection ever, and Kim Jones’ debut at Dior Homme.
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.