Weird Party. Marc Jacobs SS14

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“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…

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HC: ATELIER VERSACE AW13

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Naomi Campbell walked down the runway like only Naomi can, in a jacket held together with crystal hooks and eyes. Underneath she wore a black lace bra, inspired with Madonna, and she was flashing a substantial swath of upper thigh. That was amazing. The icon in pretty new, fresh form, was mind blowing. The collection of Atelier Versace by Donatella Versace was all about bright past. First of all you need to know, that Donatella is recreating only two years, after a long break when Gianni died. This is like a renaissance. I should say, that for real Atelier Versace is now and then two much better than all these Chanel and Dior Haute Couture… All the Sergeenko’s, Valli’s, Jarrar’s need to hide and will never be as good as Atelier. Gianni is dead, but Donatella lives, and she really makes the label up. This is fantastic. I love it. Really.
This collection wasn’t about shitty minimalism but is propagated by Dior, or cheap looking wedding dresses by Chanel. The details- crystal hooks, fur, amazing tailor ship, best quality. And a cat suit that plunged down to Lindsey Wixson’s navel was paneled from lace, net, and handwoven leather. That piece was the least thirties-ish of the lot, but all of the models wore real diamond jewelry designed by Versace. I feel the Gianni spirit here!!!

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Hitchcockian Seduction

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Hermes by Christophe Lemaire for AW13 is revisting the Hitchcock woman into a new generation- perfect anonymous chic to provide a subtle charge. This is what Parisian Hermes should be like- a bit menswear, elegant and super chic. This is a antidote for the colour splash on the street style, that for a long time won’t wear Hermes for everyday. But why? Too expensive? Yes it is,but not form these Russian girls and American billlionaires. Hermes clothes do not have a label name EVERYWHERE. Ok, when Mira Duma wears this black tweed costume with fur pompon, there is no double C on it, but everyone who is interested a bit in fashion knows it’s Chanel. What I love in Hermes is the classical touch and this simplicity in every cape, fur… That is so beautiful!

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Men’s: Prada’s Idealogy

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“Questioning the cliche of the exotic, the cliche of the perfect summer- of impossible happiness” Miuccia Prada said in one of her very elusive comments after her Sunday Milan men’s show for S14. The wild and awesome muraks around the runway- in red, yellow and green- meant something more than a extra ordinary decoration. There was this helicopter flight sound around. The models in flower printed jackets were up to no good.
As the mysterious businessmens were walking around, holding some Shanagaim postcard like bags that looked creepy. These weren’t some kind of Gaugin flowers- the architect Rem Koolhaas and his OMA organization, described the set as “menacing paradise”. But who wouldn’t love to li e here? Clothes are rich and fresh, full of desire? There is nothing new about Tahitian shirts which Prada used before. There is still this allure feeling. It’s all about the rich mans that colonised Vietman and used their goods for them. Well, you’ve got to be imaginative to give such a dense and realistic idealogy…

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Belles du Mexique

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While packing, Lena found her beautiful, archival Hermes scarf that is stunning! The Belles du Mexique scarf made of silk with Mexican women dancing in their traditional dresses, is like a huge splash of colours, full of details and fun. Perfect for beach parties and a city escape during summer vacations. And it is so chic! I feel now so “these” times, after seeing this cool piece and the Yves Saint Laurent Style book, full of prints, sexuality and colours! Laisse aller à la plage!

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And for a dessert for the top of all- Veruschka in Yves Saint Laurent safari costume! Looks beautiful!