Show Girl. Tom Ford SS15

September 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tom Ford sexy ups his label with every season. But this was over the top! Tricky velvet suits, sheer tops, sequin flowers sticked to nipples, Gucci-esque white gowns… a real show-girl time. The soundtrack was a narcotized female version of “Addicted to Love” (the vocalist’s emphasis on the addiction, rather than the love), to which extraordinarily proportioned girls—rail thin, seven feet tall in their platform clogs—teetered down the mirrored catwalk, eyes laden with mascara, hair in teased-out shags. Tom’s SS15 isn’t really about the “sexy” office go-out, but it’s surely for women which feel sexy in their skin… and attitude.

Disruption. Thomas Tait SS15

September 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Brutalistic venue. Loud music. Nipples. Plastic. Stripes. Provocative. Georges Rousse. Minimal, but abstract. The star is born. Thomas Tait, the latest treasure of London showed a striking collection, under the wings of LVMH. And it’s totally something you didn’t see before (well, only if you saw the older collections by Tait). “I work so hard on the clothes inside and out, and most of the time it does boil down to a straight up runway image and people only get a fraction of the story.” Thomas Tait might me slightly similar to Gareth Pugh- also a Brit doing extravagant fashion. But what I love more about Tait is the fact that his clothes are wearable. The leather geometrical cut-out skirts, satin tops, transparency… who cares about the nipple? We live in the times, where being scared of your own nipple is funny. Transparent dresses were worn with metallic stilettos that morphed into nude tights, and ran alongside block coloured leather jackets with only one sleeve. I also loved the stripe episode! It was sexy but pretty “ugly”. Just like the colours, which were eye catchy, but for most very unattractive. This collection just says one thing: whatever. Whatever people say, Thomas Tait is Thomas Tait. And that counts for now. Love that vibe.

Re-Visted. Christopher Kane SS15

September 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Being thankful for his teacher, Louise Wilson, who died earlier this week, Christopher Kane dedicated his show to her. The SS15 collection felt like a moment of breath; of memory; of reflection. Kane definitely did his first “re-visted” show, meaning he summed up his best looks and seasons, to create something of a summary, In reality, we saw a lot of these pieces before- the velvet / seatin mix. Burgundy explosion. Interesting couture embroideries. Street influenced sophisticated looks. And a lot of sheer fabrics. I can’t say this collection made me stunned- no, not at all. It looks pretty innovative, with it’s new, glamorous mood. But it really feels, that Kane got commercialised. Even the fact that his first flagship store is on it’s way means something. Hopefully, the next time is going to be more Kane-ish.

Relaxed Way. Barbara Casasola SS15

September 14, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Barabara Casasola is the hottest name coming from Brazil, making the start of London Fashion Week relaxed and sexy. For summer, the designer used shades of warm grey, khaki and orange, to put together a sensual line-up.The pencil skirts and tops were slim, but at the same time warn in a slouch way; the closing look, so the tank-top worn with pleated trousers (they too good), was also an easy way to show the warm feminine side. Casasola is on the boundary of simple dressing and provocative sensuality- and we really like it! We’ve got our eyes on this emerging designer!

Traveler. Creature of The Wind SS15

September 4, 2014September 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What I always love about Creatures of The Wind is their fresh view at slightly kitsch prints and patterns. This time, they made the granny floral curtain look not excessive, but rather simple and delicate- this print was used on the coats and even on the bras. We also had some intereting embellishments and stripes, shown in over-sized pants and tops. Full of funny fringes, traveler jackets and “the perfect escape” oriental smokings / pajamas, this beautiful collection is what I would surely want to see on lazy beach vacations somewhere on Bali or Biarritz!

These photos from Australia are by the lovely Kinga Burza.