Time Travel. Louis Vuitton SS15

October 5, 2014October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Fondation Louis Vuitton, Frank Gehry’s new masterpiece, was gleaming above the Bois de Boulogne in the October sun. And here, also, the third Louis Vuitton show was held under creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquiere. It was literally a time travel. Sci-fi movie. Big, cyborg platforms with youthful faces speaking in unison lines that had been lifted and modified from the 1984 David Lynch film, Dune: “A beginning is a very delicate time…Day zero in the heart of the project, code-named GEHRY014…A ship surrounded by a gigantic woodland, a ship made up of 3,600 glass panels and 15,000 tons of steel, a ship that serves as an incubator and ignites our fellow creative minds…Oh, yes, I forgot to tell you, today, October 1, the LV house wants to explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving. The journey starts here.” We know already from Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga times, that he loves science-fiction. But that was major. That was the start. First looks were all about folklore knits. Then, sharp denim. Modernistic dresses. Floral collages. Fun with LV logo. “No rupture with last season,” Ghesquière said afterward. “It’s still a wardrobe, it’s about an instinctive mix.” Indeed there was a mix of wearable and couture-ish vibe. But it was totally Nicolas Ghesquiere. What are your thoughts about the show?

Paris Á Paris

October 2, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Louis Vuitton SS15 par Nicolas Ghesquiere… with portraits by Juergen Teller. Different, heritage, fantasy. Paris. The review in the upcoming days.

Memories. Maison Martin Margiela SS15

September 28, 2014September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wet. The models were literally wet during the Maison Martin Margiela show. What else felt “wow” in this collection? Hand-painted daisies on skirts and over-sized sunglasses. And the print mash-up with oriental kimono-like cut-outs. What was the idea, motif of the idea? No idea. But it felt attractive, a bit perverse and very mysterious. It feels elusive and totally Margiela.

Fashion History. Dior SS15

September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The music was so bad, that Anna Wintour run away in the middle of the show, screaming “horrible fashion”. Well. Half that’s true. The music certainly was bad, and the clothes were also not really good… Raf Simons continues the same idea as during his last couture- to show history of fashion changing throughout one show. First we had medival gowns, pilgrim caftans. Then, lady-like skirt-and-tops. At the end, cosmic jumpsuits. Mostly all-white collection, with few drops of red velvet and blue tulle, felt for me not so good. It kind of didn’t have this thing that Raf usually brings to Dior. This modernity of past or how he calls it, starts to be boring. And I still can’t forgive the shoes. They looked to heavy, and destroyed nearly all looks. I don’t want to hate, but this thing doesn’t work on me. Hope Dior is not falling down again…

NASA in Paris. Paco Rabanne SS15

September 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena is just the perfect match for Paco Rabanne. He really makes the brand breath with new life and energy! Very athletic, cosmic, modern- these are the words that do describe the SS15. Having a strong view on details (like bracelets or sci-fi embroideries), Julien and Marie Amelie Sauve did a great job with styling and model casting. Mica looked gorgeous in that knit; Amanda stole the show in that burgundy jacket; Natalie rocked the “shirt” dress. Think Olympic swimming pool, not Saint-Tropez, with color-blocking, contrast piping, daring cutouts, and skirts draped diagonally across the hips, exposing the pelvic bone on one side. They’ll require a phenomenal body to pull off, just as Rabanne’s did back in the day: 21st-century Jane Birkins and Françoise Hardys only. The mustang boots just gave the overall look a sharp, edgy vibe.