Men’s: Faun. Rick Owens SS15

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“I was thinking about the ballet Afternoon of a Faun, choreographed by Nijinsky. It basically all culminates with this faun masturbating on a nymph’s scarf, so everybody in the audience, with all their jewels, are just waiting for this guy to hump the scarf. I love that!” – Rick Owens said before the show. Intresting interpretation… just like his SS15 show dedicated to duality of futurism and primitivism. Few models were painted white to look more fantasy like. The models wore these cavemen like skirts uncovering their torsos while the shoes felt outer space. The solemn faces of the models were pale and solemn… it was all a very interesting fairy-tale. Thoughts?

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Quality. The Row Resort’15

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Perfection. The Olsen sisters know how. If you see a woman wearing a caftan this Spring on Manhattan, then guilt The Row’s SS14. If you see huge, 900 gram heavy cashmere sweaters- also think of The Row. This eponymous brand really influences fashion. It’s ultra-luxurious approach towards the silhouettes, clothes and fabrics is impressive. Oh, fabrics. This time for Resort they were the biggest thing at The Row! Sea Island cotton, natural linen, double-face wool, supple suede and knitted cashmere are just few examples of fabrics that were used to create this great collection. And all of that was perfectly composed into gorgeous outfits! Maxi coats, oxford shoes, delicate blouses, super wide trousers… and all linked with mink belts that reminded of Phoebe Philo’s idea for AW14 Celine. To sum up, for me the American version of Celine is The Row and Parisian version of The Row is Celine. Why? Both are best quality and… perfect (sorry for my bias)!

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Slouchy. J.W. Anderson Resort’15

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I am mesmerised. I truly love this Resort 2015 collection in case of Jonathan Anderson. It’s beautiful in it’s ugliness. Kept in calm colours of beige, grey and red, the collection reminded me of the typical British country land-scape, full of farms and valleys. There was something delicate about it too. The deconstructed shirts, origami maxi dresses and the chic black costume made of a shirt and over-sized trousers were my favourites. It somehow reminds of early Prada, at which Miuccia investigated uniforms and ugliness in fashion. This slouch way of styling, these imperfections… I am looking forward to see the continuation for this interesting idea in September, Jonathan!

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Jacquemus En Greve

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I would say that Simone Porte Jacquemus is not a typical fashion designers. His is creating fashion, that is much more conceptual, but at the same time a lot more wearable than you would think. Yes, maybe neoprene dress sounds cosmic, but at Jacquemus, in pigeon blue, it looks not pretty, but… childish? A bit femme enfant (that was the name of his AW14 collection)? Jacquemus is a brand that reminds me somehow of Rei Kawabuko’s Comme des Garcons. It’s individual, different. It won’t be copied by Zara. With the models characteristically wearing white Adidas sneakers and white socks, Simon is true to his own style- well, he also dresses like that. Always white Adidas sneaks with white socks and a Comme des Garcons white shirt.

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The AW14 collection was all about childish way of thinking. Round, coloured dots appeared on the transparent skirts and tops, while a lot of neoprene literally hung from white strings of cotton. Everything was all about sophistication is simple, usual things. Meaning, the imagination of a child. And, as Simon says, he feels like on! Je m’appelle Simons, j’aime le bleu et le blanc, les rayures, le soleil, Marseille et les annees 80 is the typical way he starts a conversation. So what to expect? This is a new movement in fashion (or maybe a strike- greve) against being serious!

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Werk It Out Like Proenza

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Proenza Schouler does the most anticipated collection from New York fashion weeks already for a long time. Known for it’s sophisticated style including unique fabrics, colourful dresses and “too cool to care” pieces, Proenza designed their AW14 collection“energy, abstraction, humour, action, colour, instinct, spontaneous, fast” words in mind.Surprisingly spite of the precision cutting and fabrics that often looked like carpet underlay, now looked charming rather weird. Proenza as always broke the rules- fabrics that don’t tend to be matched for example with neoprene were all mixed up here. Combined of geek sandals and Cristobal Balenciaga inspired cuts and forms of jackets and skirts, the collection was rapidly named major this fall. The jewellery was all about marble, that definitely felt right within all that scientific approach.

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