From Kiev Fashion Week, Anton Belinskiy seemed to be the biggest highlight. I truly loved the attitude his AW15 clothes had – they seemed to say “whatever” to everything, but in good sense. “Poor But Cool” knits and dresses clearly said, that everybody can wear a fur coat (in blush pink colour). The voluminous skirts and flared tops were constructed out of sporty, colourful textiles, which gave the whole collection a chilled, slightly edgy vibe.
One word that describes Miu Miu for fall is “cute“. Floral jewellery; little toddler shirts; pastel-coloured coats and dresses. Slightly naive and at the same time sexy. Miuccia Prada brought within the collection some spectacular aligator coats and really eye-catchy tweed skirts which seem to land the must-have status. Prada decided to play with fake—something something which seem to be artificial. This wasn’t just a collection of animal prints and patterns, rich in embossed leopard print with perverse backless “pinafore” dresses with big cartoon buttons. Miuccia states – you can have any color you like as long as it isn’t natural.
“Instinct? I like that word,” said Miuccia Prada after her show. For indeed, like all designers, she is led by her internal instincts, and these were animal ones on exposure today. “I wanted to put things together in a naive way, not caring, always wrong, with that attitude of instinct. It started with the mutation of ostrich in Prada, the genetic modification, the idea of a new species.“
And this is how we end this very busy and buzzy fashion month… au revoir.
Literally, Hedi Slimane was inspired with “style” and “attitude” of strip-teasers from LA. Yeah. I know. Surely, Saint Laurent wins the contest for the shortest mini-dress of the decade.
That was a big moment for Hermes – the former designer assistant of The Row, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, showed her debutant collection for this historical French house. Strict suede silhouettes and sexy pencil skirts are out-standing while the way Nadege transformed silk scarves into leather bandanas is a highlight. Red and mustard were the key colours of this minimal and classical presentation – although the collection lacks the romanticism which was brought by Christophe Lemaire, the clean and sharp lines match the house codes too. It’s already a wonder what Cynulski’s going to do in the future for Hermes!
With Paz de la Huerta closing the show, Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label was all about a terrific wedding ceremony. And unisex fashion, too. The models oozed with non-chalance and aristocrat-wen-bad attitude; the glitter was everywhere. Girls wore over-sized blazers while the guys prefered dramatic gowns which lacked corsets – #freethenipple moment felt present everywhere. The chaos of this mad party had a riot tension – Vivienne celebrated all types of love in her gleeful collection.
Design & Culture by Ed 