Oh yes! Raf Simons again makes his fashion interesting. For fall, the RTW collection looks cosmic – high-tech sequins look like second, shiny skin of the model; the psychodelic latex boots and printed dresses are super eye-catchy. The green coat is toxic in it’s beauty. Everything lacquered and at the same time reminding something of reptiles and other animals. The furs and interesting fluid-like craft techniques are mind-blowing. Raf Simons described this collection not only primitive in a sense, but as “something more liberated, darker, more sexual.” Something more than Dior’s femme fleur, in other words which he brought monotonously for few seasons.
mood
Astronauts. Paco Rabanne AW15
In the 20th century, Paco Rabanne wanted to create a wardrobe for modern women; in 21st century, we’ve got Julien Dossena who wants to make Paco Rabanne the future go-to label. The result for AW15 is pleasing – iconic chain dresses, astronaut-like mesh jackets (like the one worn by Aya Jones), voluminous varsity jackets and very wearable ankle boots. The zips were the key here, too – they were mostly everywhere, giving us some leg or exposing shoulders. The sheer fabrics there and there and brought sex-appeal which was slightly missed by Julien in previous seasons. In other words – Dossena feels like in the right shoes at Paco’s house.
By me for nuicons.com
New Lady-Like. Rochas AW15
Alessandro Dell’Acqua of No21 makes the legendary Rochas house alive! And his AW15, the third runway collection for this label, is ultra-cool in it’s feminity. As it’s the 90th birthday of the historical Parisian house created and found by Marcel Rochas, the new Italian designer presented a refreshing view on women’s wardrobe. The dresses were lady-like, with ribbons, archive heritage-bird prints and ruffles – but the shoes had punky studs on. And if we contrast that with sheer silk skirts… then the overall result is a bomb. Just like the warm yellow colour which appeared on Maja Salamon and Molly Blair. We can’t wait for more, Alessandro!
By me for nuicons.com
Dadaism Allure. Jacquemus AW15
Dadaistic silhouettes. Primitively covered faces. Barefoot. Nudity. Simone Porte Jacquemus continues his “naive” fashion journey, keeping his AW15 the most mature of all. With faces painted by Sebastien Bieniek, which felt very abstract (and creepy), the collection provokes and at the same time shows primitive cuts and simple way of attaching textiles. Explaining that he wanted to capture some of the instinctual feel of being a child, the designer said: “I cut jackets like little kids will do—sometimes the cut is weird, there is just a half top. I like this randomness.” But what does the NSFW dose mean? In my opinion, just like the twirling black hands, it’s a part of some kind conceptual performance which Jacquemus shows off. The whole collection, full of exaggeration and peculiar sex-appeal felt even more artistic and disturbing when you looked at the venue “designed” by Alex de Betak – walls with hole, camping chairs for the guests, dust and a smell of fresh paint. Escapism at its full strength. Although this collection might feel eerie for many, I like it’s elusiveness – it’s magnetising. And, let’s be honest – for a while, we didn’t see any show that was really strange and more than entertaining.
American Paris. Anthony Vaccarello AW15
Anthony went to LA and thought it’s right to put Americana into the latest collection. Unfortunately, this collection reminds me of Rodarte’s trashy sequined mini-dresses or Saint Lauren’t rock & roll opulence rather than Vaccarello’s cool allure. The leather dresses were appliqued with metal stars and studs. Except black, we could also spot suede. But in reality, not only this collection didn’t bring anything new – it was a perfect cliche. Anthony, please let Hedi Slimane do the American-inspired thing in Paris. Hopefully, the cliche mood won’t stay for long in here.





































