Alaia Perfume

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One thing’s sure – this perfume is going to be as good, as the campaign shot by Paolo Roversi and styled by Julien D’ys. Sexy, sensual, elusive – just like the magic of Alaia. The bottle is beautiful just like Alaia’s signature body dresses. Can’t wait to smell it because the expectations for Azzedine’s debutant fragrance are really high…

50 Shades of Black. Alexander Wang AW15

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 “Our customer wants black, so why not do an all-black collection?” Oh dear. It’s the most commercialised sentence I ever heard from anyone in the industry since I started writing. Alexander Wang, really? REALLY? Does this mean, that the label totally went for the masses and decided to be ruled by the customer? Creativity means, that you give an idea to people – this means, that your idea is accepted or not by the person buying, analysing or observing your work. But saying that if they want black, then lets give them black makes me want to puke. Well, the Alexander Wang X HM capsule was already a bad sign (lets not deceive ourselves – the logomania prints and all that polyester & neoprene stuff was dumb). But after this totally black collection (except few pairs of jeans and one white sweater) I lose any respect for Wang. Aside from those Frankenstein boots, everything is so retail-friendly. Every rich teen girl would die to look like Kendall Jenner in one of these black dresses… and, she is going to get it, ’cause Wang knows that the “customer’s always right”.

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Gris. Jacquemus Pre-Fall’15

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Jacquemus gets commercial… and this is his first pre-fall collection. This look-book is not the thing you would expect from Simone Porte – his usually naive, colourful collections are contradictory to this mature, sharp and, as the name suggest, grey-shaded pre-fall. The background seems to be disturbing, too – factories and desolated beach… if talking of the clothes, we can observe exaggerated shoulders, school-uniform lengths and rounded “panels” jutting out of the skirts and tops. Personally, I prefered Jacquemus being more… conceptual? Not that muted?

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#TBT: Julien David Anonymous

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Bonjour! Although it’s the first day of new year, let’s start from a Thursday throwback at 2011, when Julien David presented his debutant collection in Paris. Keeping it cool since the beginning, Julien brought sneakers, sporty coats and vibrant prints on to the show- but, to keep it more niche and anonymous, every model wore a sac on their head. Although the head-dresses were sheer, the pixel print made the faces nearly invisible…