Adrian Appioloza’s third collection for Moschino was a subcultural grand tour, a study of fashion cliques from a guy with an obsessive eye for detail (and vintage). From breezy milkmaids to Perry-Ellis-by-Marc-Jacobs grunge, from subtle punks to sciura glam, this was a line-up that showed the designer’s range – and ability to translate Franco Moschino’s tongue-in-cheek style to contemporary audience. Most ambitious were the deconstructed LBDs, little T-shirt tube dresses (tubinos in Italian, Appiolaza said) that from the back were cut in the more expressive shapes of the ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s. These felt like a brainchild of Moschino’s humour and slightly tougher, Margiela-ist sensitivity.  “Fun and optimism are important for me,” Appioloza summed up. 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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