New Designer – Design & Culture by Ed

Lately, Paris is the place where young talents emerge. The fashion industry has already been awestricken by the league of such designers like Simon Porte Jacquemus, Glenn Martens and Demna Gvasalia. But it’s all about boys… and it’s the high time for ladies – and here we’re with Marine Serre, who kicked off her Paris Fashion Week at The Broken Arm.

Always crowdy, and filled with chic Parisians, this store was founded by Guillaume Steinmetz, Anaïs Lafarge, and Romain Joste. Hidden in off-beat Le Marais district, it’s the place where you will meet all the editors during any fashion event in the city (forget touristic Colette…). The Broken Arm sells a well-curated selection of clothes from Raf Simons, Balenciaga, Prada or Jacquemus – but instead of choosing one of them, the owners decided to give the window-display space under Serre’s wings for the entire fashion week.

Marine Serre is a French graduate from La Cambre Mode school in Brussels. After fruitful internships at recognised brands (Maison Margiela, Dior, Balenciaga), Serre decided to go her own path. Radical Call for Love is her second season, and it appears to be her break-through moment. The collection, as the designer says, “projects the combination of 19th century Arabic luxurious garments with corporate sportswear branding aesthetics of the 1990s and 2000 into a futurist oriented fashion.” Radical Call for Love is somewhat a visual comment on “urgency and contemporaneity by the tragic events in Paris and Brussels in 2015 and 2016.” The message the designer convyes is presented in metaphorical way, being slightly exposed by Islamic symbols, interestingly transformed into logo-like branding and faux-Nike headbands.

More here.

I am crazy in love with Emanuel Ungaro by Fausto Puglissi at the current moment! While you live in Italy for two weeks, you are like getting the idea of kitsch in fashion- Dolce Gabbana is all about tradition; Moschino is aristocracy; Prada is the new modernity; and Fausto Puglisi is a new comer of Italian fashion that is really messing around with his punk checks, embellished caps and leopard printed sexy dresses that are favourites of Coco Rocha. I was long observing this young designer, and after seeing the AW13 collection for dying label, Ungaro, I feel he, and few more young Italian designers will be leading the next era in Milan fashion! As I wrote, Emanuel Ungaro for a period of time s really dying. About a Lindsay Lohan catastrophy and lost of Avenue Montaigne boutique in Paris, this label needs a rescue boat in killing fashion world… So here it is- Puglisi!
As you see, the pieces I saw in the showroom here in Tuscany look very exciting and sexy… The prints, golden embroideries, in other words luxury! Fausto Puglisi is the name that is certainly one to watch, and Ungaro will again shock the world! 😄😄😄

Here something more about this talented designer! “Fausto Puglisi was born in Messina and started his carreer exporting his talent to the USA. When he was eighteen, he moved to New York and started collaborating with worldwide known stylists and photographers. His outfits gained great success and many Hollywood celebrities have been dressing Fausto Puglisi outfits at the most important events. Fausto Puglisi loves visual culture. He is inspired by the mix between the high culture and popular elements and the result is a really complex brand identity: heroic Sicily, Italian neo-realism movies, American star system, Roman gladiators, modern architecture and the richness of the Mediterranean Baroque. His geometric creations express a rich and defined style, focusing on color contrasts and embroideries research. His clothes embody an ideal of beauty based on strength, to design a contemporary glamour. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana appreciate Fausto Puglisi’s talent and asked him to be part of their “Young Designers” project, that gave him a great visibility inside their concept store Spiga2 in Milan. Fausto Puglisi dresses have been worn during important events like the Super Bowl 2012 halftime show and his company is fast growing among International buyers and press, thanks to this Sicilian designer’s determination and commitment.”