Although nobody knows what’s happening with Helmut Lang at the moment, still, the label’s archives are rich in remarkable bits. The moment when Elise Crombez wore that sporty tank-top, polished skirt and nude stilettos in 2004, it stroke all New Yorkers and Lang fans. Like an intense ray of light. Or sudden arrival of summer. Happy Throwback Thursday!
Ace & Jig is a brand which looks forward to artisanal threads and interesting textiles. For their AW15 collection, Cary and Jenna collaborated with Caroline Kaufman – bold, knitted scarves with pompons and chunky, fluffy cardigans were introduced, contrasting with delicate cottons. Also, over-sized skirts and coats appeared, creating a pilgrim-like mood, worn with these gorgeous hats. I am happy tis all-American label starts to have it’s signature style on fleek (yes, on FLEEK).
AW15 is the season which is merely all about trends. It rather tells a story which might be translated too many languages – we’ve got 80’s, we’ve got goth, we’ve got normcore, we’ve got green flowers – the new autumn / winter season has a lot to offer, trust me.
Why 80’s are cool again? I always thought that this fashion era is slightly poor. But Jonathan Anderson of his J.W. Anderson and Loewe thinks differently. Graphic kaftans, corduroy trousers, over-sized leather jackets are all a signature of 80’s movies and pop-culture icons. Grace Jones appeared on nearly every designer’s mood-board, just like Memphis Milano Studio and their bold furniture. AW15’s favourite, Vetements brought on over-sized mohair sweater with granny’s pearl earrings while Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent went for a crazy disco party in LA, where 80’s had its impact, too.
Wearing black is not only about wearing black. It’s also all about drama in a way. Marc Jacobs had Diana Vreeland on his mind while Giles gave his women a black, goth lipstick and a lot of vinyl. The pussy bow shirt gave the right amount of sex to that.
Bohemian rhapsody was present everywhere at Chloe, where Clare Keller thought about Kate Bush’ ponchos and patch-worked dresses. Stella Jean had her ethnic chic being transformed into something more bohemia while Burberry‘s Christopher Bailey brought classical, gypsy-esque mood.
#FREETHENIPPLE had a moment on the AW15 runways. Sheer textiles stole the spotlight (think Marc Jacobs). And sometimes, nothing covered model’s breasts. Jacquemus made us think of dadaistic escapism and Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent had a mini-dress which didn’t cover one of the boobies. Lemaire went more alternative, and created a one-of-a-kind leather bag, shaped in two breasts. The effect seemed to be sensual.
Pastels. Not much to say. Bottega Veneta and Prada went pistachio green while Alessandro Dell’Acqua had blush pink all over his cute skirts and shirt at No21.
Blame Alessandro Michele. His recent Gucci debut was all about romance. It was sexy and smart and flirty. It made me of Rubens, Raffaello, Botticelli and other Italian masters of painting. Erdem from London also took a bite from romantic theme, making his AW15 woman exude with fragility and love.
Green flowers. And ultra-mini trend. Brought by Johan Galliano at Maison Margiela.
Fluffy furs were the thing for AW15. Celine, Altuzarra and Louis Vuitton had those sweet, warm and cozy white / pink furs. The one worn by Freja Beha at Louis Vuitton might be a nice thing to wear on a freezing wedding day because it’s so elegant and chic at the same time.
Shiny is more than cool. Anthony Vaccarello and Paco Rabanne shined bright with their dazzling and flickering stud-embroidered suede dresses and sporty mini-dresses.
Checks, checks and checks made the dresses and skirts of the season. Creatures of the Wind had this beautiful twirled skirt with gingham all over it; Miu Miu brought perverse shirts with naive patterns; A.W.A.K.E. went full with checks.
Survivor kit of AW15 officially must contain – DsQuared fringed poncho, Celine “mademoiselle” cape, Sacai anorak coat.
Comfort is always the most important. Victororia Beckham, Lemaire, Stella McCartney, Hermes, Jil Sander, Protagonist and Proenza Schouler know that, by creating beautiful, soft wool dresses, coats and sweaters.
According to Haider Ackermann, a bit of rock’n’roll is mandatory in every wardrobe. Leather skirts, black blazers and strong red accents are not only punk, but also very dandy and refined, if we look at Dries Van Noten or Lanvin. But still, the smoking suit contest is won by A.F. Vandevorst.
The Japanese designers go avant-garde. As always. Comme des Garcons brings on the topic of sadness through black lace and voluminous silhouettes; Yohji Yamamoto‘s women exude with mystery; Junya Watanabe uses mathematics in order to create clothes out of this world. The Irish & Korean native, Simone Rocha, thinks Louise Bourgeois and her suspended artworks.
Khaki; military; olive. So many ways to describe this shade of green, used in great way by Raf Simons at Dior, Mona Kowalska at A Détacher and Jason Wu.
Denim. Literally and basing the idea on jeans blue. Rachel Comey, Marques Almeida and Louis Vuitton make us drool for a new pair of Levis.
I am so proud. It’s the first time a Polish designer is really in the spotlight in New York. It’s Piotrek Panzczyk and his Parsons MA partner, Beckett Fogg, which nurture their imaginary baby since 2013 – Area. And their AW15 collection which hit the web proves, that these two are up to something big. They have a specific way of synthesising their textiles and bringing their ideas to another dimension – abstract ideas of sister-hood which is visible on their mood-board; wool and lame mixed with some ultra modern resins and materials. The polished patent flares caught my eye, just like the sleek tops which make me think of reptile’s moist skin. Everything looks sharp and sculptural. Keep an eye for this couple… and visit this fresh area.
“The eye has to travel” is a quote that always felt close to me. Who said it? Diana Vreeland, the queen of fashion from the 20th century. Fortunately, this quote is also important to Marc Jacobs – his AW15 collection definitely proves it. With a stormy temper, the models walked down the gloomy runway wearing Victorian gowns, Night Porter inspired sheer dresses, pilgrim shoes, art nouveau prints on flared skirts – you’ve got a feeling that you’re filtering a gorgeous Vogue edition which is guest edited by Marc. And Katie Grand, of course!
“She was a genius,” Jacobs said of the legendary Vogue editor, Diana, backstage. “She got the whole fashion thing: being decisive, being so excitable, and then being as passionate and dismissive about the very same thing the next day.” Jacobs read her Memos book while he was working on the Fall collection; the surprise is that he hasn’t made a muse of Vreeland before. “I felt like that’s what fashion is,” he continued, “that complete addiction, obsession, that I’ve-got-to-have-it need until I basically wouldn’t be caught dead in it.” The darkness changed into monochrome and bold red; the textiles were opulent and rich. As it’s the last show of New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs gave us a delicious dessert, leaving the best for the end.
Design & Culture by Ed 