Tribal Attack. Proenza Schouler AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I think Proenza Schouler discovered TOO many fields for AW15. Fish net tights. Tribal embroidery (feathers, some kind of jungle decoration which came out of nowhere) . Flesh-exposure (Helmut Lang’s calling!). It wouldn’t be a Proenza Schouler collection without the complex textile processes that make their pieces so special and so synthetic. Backstage, they called it their most technical collection yet – as they described sections of “chiffon needle-punched over over and again to create a stiffened fabric used on the tailoring and the tweed that was made out of strips of fabrics, that were especially woven for the purpose”. Even without knowing the ins and outs of all the fabrications, it was obvious that what pulsed through was pure innovation. But innovation doesn’t always mean a good collection. I prefer when the collection has a fluent line, even if it’s is called abstract, sophisticated or mindful. In this collection, Jack and Lazaro lost this fluency which they always mastered in previous collections. Plus, I can’t forgive the fish-net tights. But, look! They debuted with menswear! There is only one look for men, but. Although, I don’t feel this specific collection, I am truly interested where Proenza Schouler is heading in the future,

Effortless Luxury. Michael Kors AW15

February 19, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Michael Kors knows that simple luxury is the best. This fall, he didn’t surprise us (when did he?), but this doesn’t mean that the collection was a bore – it had a lot of interesting features I personally thought were “cool” – definitely, the fox fur worn by Natasha Poly above. Ground-breaking. Then, the vintage-like doctor bags. The voluminous midi skirts made out of wool (warm classic). More? Well, the collection itself is built of wearable, normKORS basics. The collection might be SO GOOD right now, but next year we are going to forget whether this combination of clothing and styling was presented last year or two years ago. This is a very neutral look at fashion, Michael.

Rebellious Girls. MBMJ AW15

February 19, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Since Katie Hillier and Luella Burtley are present at MBMJ, the label caught some fresh air. The rebellious Marc by Marc Jacobs is a bold, provocative character, she’s a riot and she is full of power. MBMJ brought bold prints on mini-skirts, punk berets, dyed denim and heavy-duty accessories. Also, there was something of a scout girl. Bandanas tied around the necks and strict, slightly modified, camo print dominated the show. Or else they had a mini-skirts that suggested the fashion radicalism of Vivienne Westwood in the early ’80s. Good one, MBMJ.

Trashy Sequins. Rodarte AW15

February 19, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mulleavy sisters got trashy for AW15. A lot. Rodarte woman is flirty, sultry and sexy – she loves opulence, wears leather minis and reminds us a Hedi Slimane / Saint Laurent chick. I am a fan of Rodarte since their spicy beginnings – but this collection seems to be a bit… too much? The last looks remind me of dresses, which HAD to be beautiful, but somebody unfortunately overdid themselves and created a pile of sticked up feathers, sequins, glitter and Swarovski cystalised stones. That’s, surely, not my taste. Possibly, Rodarte wanted to make a parody out of kitsch-dressed women – if that was their aim, then they really nailed it. But if their aim was to “create” something fanastic… then sorry, we don’t need that. We’ve got Hedi Slimane who’s doing vulgar chic at YSL. Let the real Rodarte spirit come back.

City Trotter. The Row AW15

February 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row is always a go-to label. It’s, as I said once, American version of Celine. It’s wearble and feminine. For fall, The Row approaches the customer with babooschka flats, flared trousers, leather robe coats, new “drum” bags and smooth, knitted turtlenecks. All of that sounds like a perfect kit for city trotters, which go to work in the morning and come back home in the evening after a dinner with friends. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen brought out the old, good signatures that really sold well in the past season – the collection is good, but it lacks a boost the Olsen twins always bring. Of course, it’s a great base of #OOTD inspirations, but it feels a bit like a remix of the biggest The Row best-sellers.