“The hurricane which destroyed his house allowed Marc Jacobs to find a new source of inspiration. He symbolizes through his collection the renaissance. Under a light at first dark, almost apocalyptic, the Marc Jacobs woman who seems to be a survivor, wanders, wearing only a pajamas, a coat or a panties and clutching her personal effects. Then comes the time of resurrection, the light becomes more intense, hotter, the silhouette is more complete, glitter, lamé, fur are mixed on evening dresses, coats and boleros. The materials are divine and ostentatious but the style is uncluttered, only few pieces but all comfortable. Boa made from luxurious real mink fur, reworked to achieve the look of an actual pelt, with button eye detailing.” This fox boa that first time came out on Marc Jacobs runway, shocked everyone. No wonder why- it looked real good from far, and everybody found sweet and cute. But when I found this on Colette today, all my view destroyed on that item. This looks like if MJ stole this muppet from a child! No way, don’t buy it. Disapointed!
New York
The Flower Men
One of the coolest trend from the menswear Fashion Week SS14, is for sure the floral print. It was everywhere! It was all about the variety- from sun flowers to orchids. The king of that print was definitely Dries Van Noten. His collection was very street style, comfortable and simply chic. And florals were like everywhere! On the tank tops to the sweat pants.
The exotic one was 3.1. Philip Lim with the hummingbirds and hibiscus that decorated the tops. Miuccia Prada offered knitwear with Vietnamese flowers and Raf Simons took to a scientist laboratory, where his fantastic t-shirts had some notes written around the botanical specie… I think that was the most floral season for a really long time at men’s runway, and I think that’s totally right?
Biarritz: Thom Browne X Dita
These mind blowing sunglasses, handmade in entirely Japan and taking inspiration from architecture and machinery of the mid-20th century, these come from Thom Browne in collaboration with California-based eyewear manufacturer, Dita. When I saw them, here in Biarritz, I was like wow! They look really amazing! And this vintage appeal… They are both in white and black- unisex.
The Sense of Print
Prints are always the key element of every Altuzarra collection. Thanks to SSENSE.com, now we can explore deeeper the inspirations of Joseph Altuzarra’s magic skill of printing and embroidery in his amazing collections. Everytime he choses a colour or motive for his new print, Joseph’s mind is being influenced by travels and everyday life. It may be a jungle paradise, ethnic flower print or Nazca caligraphies. And here is a recap of Joseph’s biggest hits!
Resort 2013– Altuzarra explored culture of nomadic people, trekking into the heart of African Safari. The print that are used on the skirts, as he said, are inspired by Massai tribes. The colours were left as they are in reality- pigments of curulean blue, verillon red.
SS 2012– Joseph interprated the classic Hawaiian shirt and hulla skirt, and made it cool and very New York. The prints “contained” hibiscus flowers, parrots, liles and hyper strong colours. This paradise is very close to heart of designer because when he was a child he remembers the bird watching in California. And this is my favourite print of all! 
Resort 2013
Fall 2012- Altuzarra took us to the souks of Marrakesh when creating his prints for winter. He revisted traditional motifs of Maroccan rugs, used jacquard and tribal luxury in the coats with fox fur. The fragile silk sweaters were meant to replicate… carpet effect. When I saw it for real (it was like yesterday… :D) it looked horrrible. And that was as for me the worst collection of this designer. 
Spring 2013- The 2013 Altuzarra Collection was like a plate of Indian curry mixed with duck’s foie gras. Definitely there was too much of everything. Butterflies, India, gendarmes outfits, orthopaedic leg braces… Yes leg braces! An I’m talking about these horrifying gladiator shoes with butterflies. They really look like they were inspired with orthopaedic legs, but with some “beautiful” ornament.Then we’ve the highly tailored jackets. They look, like if they were stolen from a wardrobe of a French gendarme. But only the colours are different and the Altuzarra ones are more stylish. And if we believe Altuzarra, the print was all about vintage jewellery- Altuzarra looked to the American naturalist art movement of the 1940’s to create this print for the SS13 season.
💃 Lady-Like 🐅
The Lady trend takes a new hold through few last seasons with modernity and minimalism! And what is the new fashion object of a modern lady? No, not Jay Gatsby. A furry scarf or coat! What amazed me was the most lady like label is… Celine! Through lots of seasons, Phoebe Philo used I think the biggest amount of fur in her beautiful clothes! Prada in SS11 did a crazy thing with furry scarves- stripey print and lots of colours! This AW season Marc Jacobs used fur in a mature way- these accessories together with the gold gowns would be right thing for Gatsby woman…
Pictures: from left to right: 1. Jean Paul Gaultier Pre Fall 13 and The Row Resort 14, 2.,3. Prada SS11, 4. Celine Pre-Fall 11, 5. Marc Jacobs Resort 14, 6. Lanvin AW13, 7. Marni AW13, 8. Celine Pre Fall 10, 9. Marc Jacobs AW13
Design & Culture by Ed 