The Resort 2014 is already arriving everyday with tones of new collcetions, and it’s the time when the the hottest designers of New York already went for a nap, and the Europeans have just woke up before the Resort/Haute Couture Fashion Weeks. So here it is- a short review of Resort’14 in New York, that covers Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Balenciaga (it’s Parisian, but for me, because of Wang as head, it’s New York), Derek Lam and Jason Wu. So lets begin with… The PS brothers, Proenza Schouler!
Well, Proenza Schouler is getting every season more mature and colourless, as you can see. Creme, white and grey colours, comfortable forms and warm prints. And it looks very similar to the Pre-Fall collection. There is no excitment, because clearly Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stand for practicality, and their fantastic unique ideas are on the other side. Sad, because that was really different from others. Now it’s a bit Ralph Lauren- boring, classical.
From some time I really love what Joseph Altuzarra is doing recently- first he did a amazing AW13 collection, then took Stella Tennant as a muse… The resort is how he said, sensitive and very femine, but not as sexy as his past ones. We’ve got some wild west pants here and a bit cowboy shirts mixed with modern elegance. Beautiful fur scarves, white dresses, lace and gold, do really match Altuzarra style! 
No, I’m not crazy. Balenciaga officially IS Parisian, but since Alexander Wang is the creative director, it lost all Parisian Chick. The collection began from Wang’s visit at Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Yes. Then, Alex did nothing more, but copied the archives and made them black and white. When Ghesquiere designed Balenciaga, it was inspired by archives, but it was futuristic, edgy, modern. Now, with Mr. Wang it looks only into past, and just makes a first look that it’s SO FRESH bacause of the colour palette. I thought it won’t be so bad. Now even Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is much more better for me.
Derel Lam maybe is not a newcomer, but for sure a shooting star of NYC Fashion. This resort was minimalistic, eometrical and full of inovative fabrics. The dresses are at the time perfect for a shopping at Bergdof’s Goodman, for a run in Central Park and as well for a dinner in Nobu Tribeca. Is it a New York Celine? For now I see big future for Derek!
Jason Wu suprised me this Resort season. I usuall didn’t really like Jason Wu’s collection because they were always so formal. But, this time I am pleased! Lots of new materials, fantastic paradise prints, jeans jacketa and midi skirts, plastic trench coats, pink bra’s, transparent lace dresses… There is really a lot of telling. For sure Michelle Obama won’t wear any of these, but it looks more affordable than ever! Jason Wu, big bravo’s for the best (exequies with Marc Jacobs galmorous collection I wrote few days ago)!
New York
Twinset. Marc Jacobs Resort’14
Marc Jacobs suprised! And in a good meaning! Well, I thought, that Marc would do something, you know, full of flowers, colours and everything like everytime for the Resorts. And that’s totally not true! The Resort is like a continuation of SS13 and AW13. Glamorous sequins, 70’s polo shirts and skirts, New York “Great Gatsby” epoque and of course… Stripes! The collection is very mature, totally not sweet and cute as last resort.
Is Marc getting a bit of inspiration from… Prada? Look at the blue stripes- and now see SS11 of Miuccia Prada. The crepe skirts are just like Miu Miu SS13 and use of fur in summer? Plus there are also lots of crystals that were in the 2010 Prada era… As for me that’s totally clear- Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are life friends so why not? Will we see soon a collab of these two!
And back to the collection- Jaime Bochert looks beautiful here! Just as the collection!
Porcelain Pretty
Porcelain figurines are usually kitsch but still very beautiful. So why shouldn’t the porcelain topic be shown in fashion? And if we can say that everything is in fashion, then there is no problem with that! Staffordshire figurines had always these amazing flower details. Spanish, for example Liardo, is advanced in hand made 3D elements like tiny flowers in baskets, embroiderment on the Geisha’s kimono and other artistic fantasies. And here I’ve taken my own pictures when I was in New York from Metropolitan Museum of Art! (These are all very mind blowing!).
Meadham Kirchhoff, London based label known for very kitsh collections, had a surrealistic collab with Nicolas Kirkwood- ornamented and kitsch sandals full of embroidment, flowers, colours and ribbons. Kept in mostly in pastel colours they look like cakes on feet! That’s a bit fairy tale like, but this is how it is. Who else from London thought of porcelain as a inspiration? Queen of prints, Mary Katrantzou and her archival collection. The dresses had 3D prints with tea pots, flowers, jewels- like if Katrantzou was redrawing all the porcelain figurine features. That’s so porcelain fantastic!
Fei Feng (the graduate from Central Saint Martins) was inspired for her new haute couture collection with Ming dynasty vases and the splendor of Chinese wedding. The highly crafted detail like these flowers that move on air, or trees around the dress. Ok. Everything looks in reality ugly. And not practical. And hilarious. But still, I think it’s all very spectacular, if we have in mind that Fei did all these dresses handmade. And it matches the topic!
Sydney Mix. Ellery AW14
Sydney Fahion Week is done, and when I saw the relation of Ellery collection at Style Bubble, I was like “This is great. This is better. Everything is perfect!” This label’s deigner is Kym Ellery, a most popular fashion girl in Australia. For her runway Hanne Gaby Odiele, Ruby Jean Wilson and even Julia Nobis come out.
So, into the clothes. The Ellery girl is a mix of New York and Paris as for me. It’s edgy (lots of Maison Martin Margiela influences” a bit Suno\Proenza Schouler like. But in different way. The clothes tend to be simple, but in reality it’s opposite. They are very female and sexy. And interesting! Great use of materials, beautiful flower print on pants, bubble sweatshirts, lace and fur and lots of white/gold. Beginning is more casual and a bit street, the end- I would say “this is how a Sydney couture would look like!”. So I’m crazy for moment about Ellery, and hope to see other awesome collections by Kym! Impressed!
Marc’s Pyjama Party
Marc Jacobs, creative director of Louis Vuitton, Marc by Marc Jacobs and his own line Marc Jacobs, always knows how to draw attention to himself. And he did at always during different fashion weeks. First in New York, Jacobs presented Marc by Marc Jacobs, and ran out at the end of the show in blue/green pyjama and white sneakers. At Marc Jacobs, he had a more elegant pyjama- violet/brown from jacquard. And on the top of all, after Louis Vuitton in Paris, Marc wore a specially made pyjama with the recent LV menswear collection print.
Why is Marc wearing them? There is no real answer, only he knows why. But I’ve got hypothesis that because all the collection he designed had something “pyjama” in them- at MJ very elegant and stylish; at LV more boudoir and vintage- Marc Jacobs wanted to show with all his body, that he feels the pyjama v
Design & Culture by Ed 