Socialite. Altuzarra SS26

September 14, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Altuzarra’s (very autumnal) spring–summer 2026 collection centered on charming details, executed in a surreal, trompe-l’œil manner. A stole appeared as an illustration of bird wings encircling the neckline; a blazer’s pockets were appliquéd with black and red feathers, accentuating the waist and hips; dresses were not printed but patched with florals. Yet nothing about these wardrobe enhancements felt overly on the nose. The line-up is one that New York’s Swans – socialites like C.Z. Guest or Lee Radziwill – would surely embrace for its deft balance of day-to-evening sophistication. Balloon pants, Joseph Altuzarra’s recurring obsession, returned better than ever. For several seasons now, the designer has been channeling an elegance that feels both authentic and substantial.

ED’s SELECTION:

Altuzarra Dash Pleated Cotton-twill Barrel-leg Pants

Altuzarra Maury Shearling Jacket

Altuzarra Lennon Strapless Ribbed-knit Bustier Top

Altuzarra Drina Stretch-velvet Midi Dress

Altuzarra Origami Mini Fringed Suede Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Faux Return. Alexander Wang SS26

September 13, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I didn’t buy into the Alexander Wang show. Billed as his grand runway return after the turbulence of recent years – sexual assault allegations and all – it failed to generate any real excitement. Wang clearly aimed for a refined, demure direction reminiscent of his brief Balenciaga stint (if anyone even remembers that moment in history): ladylike dresses, business-ready tailoring, and an overall sober mood.

In effect, the collection felt entirely devoid of emotion – and not particularly elegant. The faux fur was a bit cheeky, but… aren’t we talking about a summer season? The finale looks evoked tents, for no reason. Why not revisit the essence of old Wang and create something in the airy, effortless spirit of his spring–summer 2011 collection?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Fresh Air. Proenza Schouler SS26

September 11, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

The first debut – out of more than a dozen still ahead – is now behind us. Well, sort of. Rachel Scott, founder of Diotima, just stepped into Proenza Schouler, presenting her first dialogue with the brand’s design team. I have to admit, I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw. Although Scott’s contribution to this collection must have been rather brief, she managed to inject more vitality into Proenza than Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough did in the past decade. The founders and former creative directors of the once-quintessentially-New-York-cool label struggled for years to revive their brainchild. Instead, they leaned too heavily on the aesthetics of The Row and Bottega Veneta, while borrowing too many cues from Helmut Lang and Phoebe Philo. The result: Proenza Schouler devolved into a generically minimal brand, catering to women who would just as soon shop with the Olsens.

Scott, however, brought a breath of fresh air in the very first moments of the spring–summer 2026 presentation. What struck me most were the leather laser-cut pieces – especially a t-shirt styled with ochre briefs and mint-green, over-the-knee boots crafted from a sheer, organza-like material. The floral prints exploded like vibrant fireworks, while a bright orange turtleneck sweater radiated cool.

In some ways, you could still catch glimpses of the old Proenza Schouler – colorful, bold, and rooted in an experimental play with layers and textures. I only wish the collection felt more fully resolved; but then again, this wasn’t a true debut, more of a first taste of what’s still to come.

One thing is certain: Scott needs to define exactly who the Proenza Schouler woman is.

ED’s SELECTION:

Proenza Schouler Ramona Belted Suede Coat

Proenza Schouler Track Paneled Suede Sneakers

Proenza Schouler Yves Asymmetric Fringed Knitted Top

Proenza Schouler Yves Asymmetric Fringed Striped Knitted Maxi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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She Knows. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW25

August 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maryam Nassir Zadeh has just released her autumn–winter 2025 lookbook, and it instantly makes you start thinking about September dressing and all its layering-perfect charms. Maryam is one of those instinctive designers who effortlessly create not fleeting trends, but new “ways” of dressing. The New York–based designer offers pieces as simple yet utterly chic as a mini fur scarf – designed for both women and men – tied loosely around the neck and styled nonchalantly with oversized suits or bubblegum-pink blousons. There’s a lot of tying in this collection: from a cummerbund-shaped, bi-color belt cinched over pleated trousers to a strapped bonnet – its silhouette a nostalgic nod to 1920s headwear – Nassir Zadeh treats accessories as objects to play with. Even the fringed-belt-slash-skirt can be worn with ease beneath a teddy-bear jacket and over a pair of warm tights. She just knows.

GET THE LOOK:

Pologeorgis Lamb Shearling Fur Scarf

TOTEME Faux Fur Scarf

Saint Laurent Ribbon Faux Fur Scarf

Gorski Select Lamb Pull-Through Scarf

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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High Fashion. Marc Jacobs AW25

July 3, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs showed his latest collection on Monday, it’s Thursday, and I’m still on a high!!! A fashion high! And I don’t want it to end.

The king of New York fashion is one of the last designers who knows how spark true euphoria with his runway work. And also one of the last fashion creators who comprehend, cherish, and nurture what Walter Benjamin once called aura.

It’s the magnetic, almost transcendent presence certain artworks possess. Originality, authenticity, and the sense of time and place woven into an object: this is a Marc Jacobs garment, through and through, traditionally presented at a light-speed pace at The New York Public Library. In an age of fast fashion and mass production, aura is what sets apart the truly iconic from the easily replaceable. It’s that feeling when a piece doesn’t just dress the body – it tells a story. Aura is like a drug you can’t deny. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.