Lovers. Gabriela Hearst Resort 2026

June 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gabriela Hearst makes no-nonsense clothes. Her work is often criticized for lucking “edge” – but then, somebody has to make proper, classic, always-good-looking clothes. And there actually is something edgy about her resort 2026 collection, starring Malgosia Bela, Leon Dame and Alex Olson, photographed by Zoë Ghertner. Some context: the designer is lately obsessed with Tarot, pulling a card each morning and writing down the results. The Lovers card in the Marseille deck gave this collection its radiant color palette: cobalt blue (take a look at the sumptuous cashmere poncho she did in this magnetic hue), with sprinkles of pastel-pink and bottle-green. It also gave her a template for this simple, but evocative lookbook. In the Marseille deck, there are three figures on the Lovers card rather than the usual pair: two women and a man. Hearst did some rearranging, and she’s got one woman and two men in these pictures. A power move. The garments, un-fussy and “un-styled”, are remarkably handsome: think M-65 field jackets, double-face cashmere coats and all-black eveningwear. Looking for edge? There’s the Americana-inspired cow print, a lovely springboard from the understated vibe Hearst’s clothes emanate with.

ED’s SELECTION:

Gabriela Hearst Girard Shirred Dress in Sapphire Aloe Linen

Gabriela Hearst Lacquered Tote Bag in Black & Ivory Patchwork Leather

Gabriela Hearst Lyla Knit Ponco in Dip Dye Bordeaux Multi Welfat Cashmere

Gabriela Hearst Amethyst Stalactite Necklace

Gabriela Hearst Harriet Raffia Mule

Gabriela Hearst Wyn Jacket in Recycled Denim Linen

Gabriela Hearst Fatima Crochet Skirt in Multi Cashmere

Her World. Tory Burch Resort 2026

June 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re reading me, then you know I’m obsessed with Tory Burch‘s renaissance. It seems the fashion industry is catching up, too. Last New York Fashion Week, of all collections that were presented, it was Tory’s line-up that received true acclaim. Burch and her talented design team are studying in-depth what femininity means in the modern world – and elaborate on whether it should be one thing or another. As a result, the brand offers an intriguing outlook that clashes Claire McCardell’s all-American 1940s forms, uptown New York primness (gracefully embraced by @ladiesofmadisonave) and a quirky twist that makes Burch’s designs feel so desirable. For resort 2026, the designer serves a cocktail of her tasteful affections, from unmistakable pencil skirts to delightfully prim cardigans and colorblocked sweaters. A major sensation is stirred by the collection’s biggest novelty: a semi-sheer skirt, layered up, draped and knotted to create a cascading, highly-feminine effect. It comes in delightful tones of red and mustard; the latter is styled with maroon-ish blouse and fish-net tights. It’s a look that balances sophistication, playfulness and sensuality in the most effortless, satisfying way. It’s Tory’s world, and she knows what she’s doing.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Finesse. Danielle Frankel AW25

April 14, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I said it once, I will say again: Danielle Frankel is the contemporary maestra of bridalwear. Her designs are so exquisitely crafted and majestic in execution that you will inevitably desire to wear one of her dresses not only on that most special day, but on many other occasions. Dominated by bold, architectural, Art Deco shapes and Erté-inspired forms, the latest collection stuns with incredible construction and finesse.

Take the micro-pleated dress that swishes and swirls around the body, like flowing water. Except this isn’t a styling trick; the micro-pleats in the dress are actually hundreds of micro-bones holding the shape. Then, there’s the hand-painted silk chiffon made in collaboration with a French artist who moved in to Frankel’s New York atelier for a few weeks and created a breath-taking, impressionistic floral gown in dark green as well as the hand-painted organza cocoon worn by Kristen McMenamy in the lookbook.

Frankel makes all of her dresses in Manhattan’s Garment District, and she has a talented group of designers in her atelier that can rival any haute couture house. The finale gown, also modeled by McMenamy, is made of 100,000 petals which took the atelier four months to sew by hand. Somehow, it looks effortless – just like any truly great couture garment.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Edie & Nico. Zankov AW25

February 17, 2025February 16, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

A great autumn-winter 2025 lookbook was delivered by Henry Zankov. This designer knows what he’s doing with his knitwear-focused label. Inspired by Nico and Edie Sedgwick, the 1960s New York it-girls and Warhol Factory stars, he came up with a fresh interpretation of their style that doesn’t feel too mood-boardy. Oversized paillettes on a sweater or a skirt peeking out from beneath fuzzy coats were reminiscent of the sequins Sedgwick might have picked up from Paraphernalia. The absolutely brilliant combination of a vividly hued sweater and boyish lanky pants was pure Nico, 2025 version. But what’s most important, this Zankov collection feels wholeheartedly joyful, honest – and believable. It makes me think of Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni, in the best possible way.

ED’s SELECTION:

Zankov Raven Merino Wool-jacquard Turtleneck Sweater

Zankov Delphine Brushed-knit Skirt

Zankov Mina Sequined Wool Cropped Cardigan

Zankov Lune Two-Tone Sleeveless Maxi Wool Dress

Zankov Marshall Abstract Pencil Merino Wool Maxi Skirt

Zankov Alicja Tow-Tone Wool Scarf

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Essence. Proenza Schouler AW25

February 16, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Everyone wondered how will Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McColough mark their (still puzzling) departure from Proenza Schouler. They did with a beautiful, winter-y, yet sun-drenched lookbook photographed at Manitoga/The Russel Wright Design Center, featuring the ultimate Proenza girls. Binx Walton is wearing a lime-green pleated toga-dress while snow is melting in the background. Julia Nobis looks like the ultimate New York woman in a grey checked blazer, pin-striped shirt and over-sized corduroy balloon-pants. Mica Arganaraz emanates quirky cool in cowl neck dress. In their finale (co-directed with Lisa Muscatel, the long-time head of the design studio), Hernandez and McColough sublimate their signifiers and show us what Proenza Schouler really is in contemporary fashion (that wasn’t always the case with their recent work).

But what’s the future of the brand? Time (and its new CEO, Shira Suveyke Snyder) will tell.