Modern Uniforms. Peter Do AW20

February 9, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

Peter Do is the “old Céline” guard, who developed his aesthetic and style under Phoebe Philo. Add a succesful Instagram performance and thoughtful visual communication, and it’s a label that immediately got on everybody’s lips. It’s Do’s second official season, and here’s what we’ve got: modern uniforms of exceptionally tailored pieces which are both functional and fashion-forward. The autumn-winter 2020 palette is a treat: gray, accented with rose, scarlet, and hunter green. The black, all-sequinned blazer and matching pleated skirt is a great alternative to eveningwear. The label also debuts with footwear, which is all about heavy, polished-leather boots with metallic elements. Some looks felt over-sophisticated, like the oddly sharp cuts of the jackets’ lapels, but when you put the clothes apart, those are some very, very good wardrobe essentials.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Refined Classics. The Row Pre-Fall 2020

January 31, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

“We try to be thoughtful. It’s everything for every day. There aren’t really tricks,” said Mary-Kate Olsen during The Row‘s pre-fall 2020 presentation in Paris. She and her sister, Ashley, keep on impressing the industry with their sublime, refined, minimalist, yet soft take on everyday classics. There’s an American tradition behind this: The Row stands on the shoulders of what Donna Karan did for second-wave feminist aspirers to boardrooms in the 1980s, and what Calvin Klein contributed to New York minimalism in the 1990s. Add quality that will last for years and years to come, and here’s The Row that keeps on pushing envelope in terms of the luxurious simplicity. The pre-fall line-up is filled with well-cut peacoats and silk robes, as well as business-ready offering: perfect midi pencil skirt with a matching a shirt in the same fabric or fluid trousers and a double-breasted jacket in the creamiest shade of ecru. Delightful.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Organic. Rosie Assoulin Pre-Fall 2020

January 16, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

For her lovely pre-fall 2020 line-up, Rosie Assoulin looks back at her classics – think statement sleeves, zesty colors and eveningwear that’s never fussy – and not only. The designer’s obsession with all things organic – from food to fabrics – has lent a softer touch to even her fanciest stuff of late. The collection’s “picnic plaid” cotton suits; raw-edged linen dresses; convertible cable knits (they became Instagram’s obsession the moment the images went live); candy-color, 100% vegan sandals; jacquard pieces woven with exotic fruits and their prices-per-pound. She added that this wasn’t hand-picked farmer’s market produce; the flatness of the material was instead a clever nod to our strange new habit of ordering groceries online. Another highlight: a floor-length, drop-waist shirtdress in crisp ivory poplin. To make it look even more sophisticated, the designer added extra volume with darts and tiers around the hips, creating something of a low pannier. Thumbs up for the fantastic look-book photos by Stevie Verroca and Mada Refujio!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Signatures. Batsheva Pre-Fall 2020

December 13, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Batsheva dress: high-neck, nipped waist, ruffle sleeve, full skirt. That distinct silhouette made designer Batsheva Hay‘s brand become one of New York’s biggest favourites. And even though season goes, this dress – often made from ornate, vintage textiles – doesn’t get boring. Still, now Batsheva has to move on creatively. And looking at her pre-fall 2020, she thrives. Meet the smock frock, which works as a housecoat in velveteen leopard and crimson moiré. “That’s how I want to dress now,” Hay says. And what Hay wants remains the backbone of Batsheva. New, over-sized shapes and menswear-ish separates (like a Western shirt) make debuts. Hay’s choice of fabrics – a mix of quilting materials and unlikely fashion candidates like burnout velvets and suit linings – keeps a consistency between her circle skirts and more structured day dresses. Get the Batsheva look.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

American Princess. The Marc Jacobs Pre-Fall 2020

December 11, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

The sister line of Marc Jacobs is (finally) what Miu Miu used to be to Prada in the early 2000s – a more accessible, easy and care-free label that isn’t a license trash. The Marc Jacobs (the name is Marc’s actual Instagram handle) is the modern day Marc by Marc Jacobs, which comparing to its predecessor is presice in style and consistently rotates around some of the biggest Jacobs hits: a denim jacket with Victorian puff sleeves; grunge-y baby doll dresses; fun accessorising. The “American Princess” signs all over the belts and 90s mini-bags look like instant best-sellers, just as the colourful tights that will elevate every look or adorable variations of the prairie dress. The cupcake-boob t-shirts are hilarious in a good way. While today’s sister line fashion landscape – think See by Chloe, Red Valentino, M Missoni… – rarely spark much interest and in general feel sleepy, The Marc Jacobs isn’t trying to be the main line at a lower price point. Instead, it sells great clothes that complete Marc’s brand.