Organza Fantasy. Tomo Koizumi AW19

When you become a Marc Jacobs protegé, are allowed to present your collection in his Madison Avenue store, get Katie Grand as a stylist, Pat McGrath for the make-up, and Gwendoline Christie, Karen Elson, Rowan Blanchard and Bella Hadid walk your debut show, be sure you will be on everybody’s lips for the rest of New York fashion week. But, all this very helpful support is just the cherry on the cake, because Tomo Koizumi‘s fashion is a star in itself. Although I would be cautious with calling Koizumi’s autumn-winter 2019 a fantasy of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino heights, this outing really was a fantasy that is just what New York needs. In the crowd of post-Philo aesthetic and too-edgy styling, Tomo’s polyester organza pieces, kept in all the shades of rainbow, are a true fairy-tale. Capes, ball-skirts, gowns of different lengths – all looking like a candy-sweet armour. Where will this major debut take Koizumi and his distinct style? Time will show. But it’s worth mentioning that Jacobs should be praised for helping out a new talent with his great platform. Hope to see more of initiatives like this in the upcoming seasons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Sustainable Reality. Collina Strada AW19

It’s the first time I’m writing about Hillary Taymour’s brand, Collina Strada. And I guess it’s not the last time you will hear about this New York-based brand here. I was tempted to browse through her show, when I saw one of her models carry a baby on shoulders in a very bold, yellow floral turtleneck styled with watercolour pants on Man Repeller’s Instagram stories. But that’s just a glimpse of Taymour’s joyous, tie-dyed, reality-imitating theme for autumn-winter 2019. The show started off  with a “mini TED Talk,” as Hillary referred to it, given by environmental activist and hip-hop artist Xiuhtezcatl Martinez. He spoke at length about protecting life and Mother Earth while models (and the baby!) came down the runway. Collina Strada’s designer used 75 percent deadstock fabric made into trousers and tops in psychedelic hand-painted prints and a daisy motif. In addition to those reused materials, Taymour also partnered with 4ocean to utilize beads the organization makes with recycled waste. These were used in straps of the dresses. What else suggested Collina Strada’s pursuit for sustainability? Making eco-ware cool. Refillable cups, lunch boxes and thermoses replaced totes and clutches. Yes!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Intutive. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW19

I love the first days of New York fashion week, because it’s the moment of the most daring, yet under-the-radar designers that do true wonders – without the presence of major venues, influencers, and all that stuff… Maryam Nassir Zadeh is definitely one of those designers. Although she’s beloved by her New York fandom of female professionals, she’s a designer who is far from (and, what’s most important, has no plans to be) glossy establishment. It’s a brand for women like Susan Cianciolo, Paloma Elsesser and Hailey Benton Gates – bold, diverse individuals with their own sense of style. Maryam’s clothes are, as the designer herself says, simple and intuitive. They never dress or invade you. But you’re free to experiment with them, the way you want, according to your mood. A fleece zip-up cinched with low-slung belt over a pleated skirt; beaded knit tucked in a pencil skirt; tie-dye harlequin top over a pair of cargo pants; blue leopard print coat and a delicate frock; zebra boots with a brown, leather overall. If you can’t really afford Maryam Nassir Zadeh, don’t be afraid to try the ways the designer presents the outfits. Her ‘hand-picked dressing’ is all about mixing, and spontaneity. No total looks. Bit of vintage, bit of edgy, bit of feminine: that’s the grab-and-go look of a New York woman whose wardrobe is consciously (or unconsciously) nurtured by Zadeh throughout the years.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (featuring a Hilma Af Klint artwork).

Sleek. Tom Ford AW19

Hello, NYFW. New season is on, again. There’s no rest from fashion. But then, Tom Ford isn’t here for the newness. For autumn-winter 2019, the designer delivered what he does best: the 90s sleek we all know and used to love at his Gucci. Two specific looks – worn by Maria Carla Boscono and Gigi Hadid – were a straightforward reference to his iconic 1996 collection for the Italian house. The deep, cherry red velvet suit. The jersey column eveningwear from the 2019 outing was a remiscent of the gowns that closed the same collection back then (all-white, worn by Kate Moss and Amber Valletta). Other than that, Tom returned to his tailoring roots, reworking the codes he famously established. The grey horse-rider blazer was sublime, while the version in satin black looked more than relevant with a de luxe hoodie. Some looks were complemented with groovy faux fur hats, while others were styled with sparkgling stilettos. At the very same time, the Tom Ford man should own two looks: a velvet suit, kept in the most alluring shade of burgundy, and a suit in dove grey leather. That’s it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Collector. Bode AW19

It’s official: I want to wear Bode for the rest of my life. Taking home one of the two CFDA runner-up prizes in 2018 let Emily Bode expand her truly amazing menswear brand. But still, she keeps it true to her slow fashion philosophy. Bode is actually the only brand I’m looking forward to each season during the sleepy men’s New York fashion week. She knows what the boys want, plus, the designer is praised for her sustainable practices and focus on beautifully curated craftsmanship. The autumn-winter 2019 collection is dedicated to all the collectors, who just love gathering paraphernalia (basically, me). The band of long-haired boys played soft rock tunes during the presentation, while the venue (a garage/warehouse) was filled with tour posters and hand-picked vintage furniture. Bode can make wonders out of anything.  PVC raincoats embedded with pennies and milk bottle caps. Velvet suiting made out of patchwork, each piece completely different. Hand-illustrated corduroy jackets. By styling those unique clothes with fluffy mittens, Himalayan caps and furry baboosh slippers, the overall mood is somewhere between a chic nomad and a cozy guy with a soft spot for handicraft. Big yes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.