#2015 – Rosie Assoulin

November 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

So, 2015 approaches its end, and it’s the perfect time to look back at the fashion designers who really made the cut this year. New York, London, Milan and Paris are full of great minds – but some of them have truly changed the course of trends, or rather the tendency for anti-trends. In my subjective choice, I searched for both, individualism and something more than “fashion”. 2015 is a year of designers, who made their creative vision a contemporary philosophy of everyday dressing and, of course, beauty.

Many designer who do evening-wear think that an excessive amount of Swarovski and flesh-exposing-cuts is just it. But thankfully, Rosie Assoulin is the woman who says a loud “NO” to that nonsense. The New York-based designer creates dresses which are mostly categorised as “evening” ones, but surprisingly look as good with white sneakers as with heels. By looking at her previous collections, it’s easy to conclude, that these simply cut, boldly coloured dresses look at their best with sweatpants and yes, even with hoodies.

AW15 – The stand-out pieces of this collection are the signature, cropped tops worn over white shirts, corduroy pants and of course, the dreamy maxi-gowns. The winter collection went totally against the grey-scale colour palette, giving us a diversity of reds, pinks and greens.

Resort’16 – Ruffles! Everywhere! On trousers, on shirts, on dresses – a ruffle mania. Rosie Assoulin presented a playful collection, which fused her evening attitude with something more R&B. The statement culottes had those huge, hand-made daisy-shaped cut-outs while her classy dresses smartly flipped into a fancy party or a friend’s brunch simultaneously. Also, the Woodstock-like dyed over-sized trousers had a moment. But again, the ruffles were really the stars of this collection – the curcuma coloured top with ruffled sleeves was everything. Just like the pink top which surrealistically reminded an ethereal waterfall made of ruffles.

SS16 – For her spring-summer 2016, the designer took us to one of New York’s public pools, which had its murals painted by Keith Haring. The location had a lot to do with the collection – swimwear was the key, and that was visible by looking at the very first looks. Bikini tops were worn in different configurations, while happy, slightly trippy stripes covered the voluminous flares. The colours were bold and nutritious – intensive colours made me want summer to come back as fast as possible! Assoulin’s signatures gowns are famous among New York fashionistas for their carefree attitude – this season, they had something to do with Diana Ross’ glamour. Ruffles, bows – and beautiful silhouettes are as usual ruling. That’s sure – Rosie truly enjoys her play with fashion! And I wish her the same in 2016!

New York’s Go-To. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS16

October 27, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maryam Nassir Zadeh is a go-to label and store in New York, where eponymous, yet affordable clothes and accessories are sold. For her namesake line, Maryam released the spring-summer 2016 look-book, photographed by talented Lea Colombo. The clothes are presented by two models, who reflect the Nassir Zadeh client – Mari Giudicelli and Susan Cianciolo. Devoided of fashionista crowd and massive PR explosion, the SS16 collection is a combination ranging from the designer’s signatures – note the super comfortable leather sandals and flattering dresses – to chic high-waisted trousers, sheer shirts and ecru shaded swimwear. However, the most exciting part of the line’s collection is the introduction of reworked denim. A pair of MNZ jeans, patchworked with diversity of indigo washes, seems to be the brand’s future best-selling piece, just like the glove shoes which stole the hearts of many women in the past seasons. Although Nassir Zadeh shows her collections one month after the New York Fashion Weeks, she never fails to deliver hearty and supremely stylish clothes.

Chateau Walk. The Row SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a common thing for luxury houses to change the locations for their fashion shows. The Row did not show in its hometown, New York, but shifted to Paris, where, as Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen explained, “many of our customers are, who we want to support. As you see, we are having a show in a chateau, 45 minutes outside Paris.” But did this major change influenced somehow the clothes? The Olsen sisters kept it close to their very American style – straight-lines and loose silhouettes looked ultimately The Row. In reality, no big deal – the designers constantly play wih their signature blanket ponchos, maxi dresses and lady-like pyjama looks. However, after seeing this collection, I have an impression that Olsen sisters want to transform The Row into the next Hermes – luxe-loafers and these croco-leather bags don’t make me think of an eponymous label anymore. Just like the serene model-walk around the chateau’s garden.

Over The Top. Marc Jacobs SS16

September 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs’s spring-summer 2016 show was actually really about fashion. It was so over-the-top and so good, that I just don’t know where to start from. So let me make a list of things that I am still obsessed with.

Location – This season Marc Jacobs took us to the “Hollywood of New York”. The entire fashion show was staged at the location of Ziegfeld Theatre on West 54th Street. The velvet details of the theater matched the eclectic mood of the collection precisely – glamour and chic shouted from every corner of this magical place…

Model Casting – Marc Jacobs and Anita Bitton of Establishment NY always choose the most interesting faces. Molly Bair, Lineisy Montero, Karly Loyce, Varya Shutova, Alice Metza and many more walked the show, representing diversity and beauty. But also, Marc’s all time favourites wore these opulent gowns – Guinevere Van Seenus , Karen Elson and, yes, even Beth Ditto attended the show, slaying it.

Fashion – As I mentioned before, this show seemed to be the most fashion-thinking of all during NYFW. I won’t hide it – this season was mostly about slip dresses and minimal outfits. And while everybody seemed to be revising their own signatures, Marc Jacobs truly let his imagination take over the reigns – all these silhouettes, the detailings, the whole Old Hollywood inspiration. Cinched waists and exaggerated shoulders, flared sleeves and full cut trousers, pussy bows and neck chokers, glitter and lamé were all here. Beautiful and strongly missed splendour came back to fashion on a massive scale.

Embroidery – All kinds of embellishments and applications were used in this collection. Through collaboration with Lessage studio in Paris, the evening gowns looked absolutely ethereal and highly dramatic. Matty Bovan and Amie Victoria Robertson worked on the prints, that were later on ebroidered onto the over-sized suits – their toothy and freckled characters gave the collection a humorous edge.

Uff. I am done. This collection was great, Marc! And a great ending for the pretty calm New York Fashion Week.

Flamenco. Proenza Schouler SS16

September 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler are approaching a new field of femininity. Their SS16 was like a quick vacation to South America – the heat of flamenco was unbearable, but appealing. The textiles were more light, which is a contrast to their last-season heavy wools and metal detailing; the attitude changed towards the Proenza woman, who is much more sensual and on-going. Exposed-shoulder-dresses and Cuban heeled pumps are the ultimate hits from the collection – just like the 70’s inspired, plexi earrings. However, the collection lacked a bit of fantasy, even though the designers had their dresses made by Parisian couturiers. It wasn’t a bad collection, but surely not the best one from Proenza Schouler boys.