Gender Fluid, Ageism and Raw. Eckhaus Latta SS16

September 16, 2015September 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta know how to strike New York. They don’t need Marina Abramovic to make a performance, they don’t need a celebrity-crowded front row. Eckhaus Latta is the brand, that makes the topic of gender-fluid fashion more accessible, and somewhat, intriguing. Their spring-summer 2016 collection was arty and avant-garde, but surprisingly werable. Also, it said “stop” to ageism – the designer duo’s 50+ friends walked the runway in sheer, body stocking jumpsuits. Nudity was the topic of the show, too. The models wore all those transparent blouses and mini-dresses with confidence and original, free-spirited attitude. There is a catecorigal difference between a professional model wearing an almost naked outfit, and a person that really wears the clothes. The feeling of Eckhaus Latta’s nudity is raw, but absolutely true. Although we couldn’t notice a usual blogger pack, the undergroud influencers of New York, (Dev Hynes, Juliana Huxtable, Alexandra Marzella, and Grace Dunham, among others) presented amazing, voluminous silhouettes and edgy tank-tops made from the strangest textiles I have ever seen. I must admit – after seeing the second Eckhaus Latta collection in a row, I am much more amused and overhelmed with it, than with the massive Givenchy show that took place earlier this week. Sometimes, less is really more.

Detachment. A Détacher SS16

September 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The collection opened with a pair of midi dresses in an Indonesian-inspired floral print. Polka-dots covered the dresses. Pastel-shaded knitwear was worn in a playful way. I am talking about A Détacher, the label founded and designed by Mona Kowalska. The brand’s clients and buyers understand Kowalska’s specific, edgy concept – it is not about a trend. It is all about the piece of clothing. And her current mood for dressing. Notice all those interesting, but well hidden “reconstructions”! The softness of these long pullovers. And the totes which were carried in an effortless way. True, this collection is not shouting “FASHION” across the room – but many of these hearty clothes will find their space in the wardrobe’s of women who adore A Détacher!

Unlooped. Derek Lam SS16

September 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Layered whites, lace trim and silk fringes, and a row of black buttons intentionally left unlooped for that haphazard sexiness. Derek Lam discovers feminine silhouettes for his spring-summer 2016 collection, creating great outfit compositions, and of course clothes. Fur stoles were carried by the models in a non-chalant way while the long, medieval-esque gowns looked weightlessly on Grace Hartzel. Although I felt A LOT of references to Celine and Chloe (as usually), the collection is lovely.

Smooth. Victoria Beckham SS16

September 14, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thanks to this collection, Victoria Beckham positively updated her importance in the fashion syste,. Why? It was her best NYFW outing up to date. She showed, that her clothes can be commercial and edgy at the same time. Spring-summer 2016 was simple, but bold and optimistic. Childish patterns of circles (or rather “moons”) and squares appeared in forms of suede elements and bags. The tank-tops had fantastic cut-outs, while the suede harness-vests looked pretty interesting on white t-shirts. Also, the designer paid attention to prints, which weren’t her strong side lately – it got fairly breezy when surfer prints showed up on sweatshirts and culottes. It is clearly visible, that Victoria enters her much more playful side – she puts her cocktail dresses aside and lets more over-sized, wearable clothes come into her clients’ wardrobes.

Did it On Em. Alexander Wang SS16

September 13, 2015September 13, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

You could suspect, that after leaving the French house of Balenciaga, Alexander Wang might have changed his style. Well folks, Wang is the same Wang from 2012 – the year before he arrived at Balenciaga. Same grunge affairs. The “girl from Bronx” attitude. Hoodies thrown over leather skirts, track-suits with studded heels (see this nightmare above), slouchy pajama shirts. This highly S&M black suede dress with Harley Davidson-driver inspired fringes is too much for me. Whateva dey say, Nicki Minaj approves these maxi slip dresses – even though she has never intended to be a fashion icon (but it was her who stole the spotlight in the front row). This collection was purely about the designer’s signature aesthetic and feels like a grand recap of Wang’s all-time best-sellers. Maybe because of the fact that it is the 10th anniversary of the brand? Well. I admit I prefer this Alexander Wang rather than the one that tried to be sleek and neat in Paris. However, I need to confess once again, that I am not a slave to Alexander Wang’s fashion.