Time Travel. Louis Vuitton SS15

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 The Fondation Louis Vuitton, Frank Gehry’s new masterpiece, was gleaming above the Bois de Boulogne in the October sun. And here, also, the third Louis Vuitton show was held under creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquiere. It was literally a time travel. Sci-fi movie. Big, cyborg platforms with youthful faces speaking in unison lines that had been lifted and modified from the 1984 David Lynch film, Dune: “A beginning is a very delicate time…Day zero in the heart of the project, code-named GEHRY014…A ship surrounded by a gigantic woodland, a ship made up of 3,600 glass panels and 15,000 tons of steel, a ship that serves as an incubator and ignites our fellow creative minds…Oh, yes, I forgot to tell you, today, October 1, the LV house wants to explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving. The journey starts here.” We know already from Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga times, that he loves science-fiction. But that was major. That was the start. First looks were all about folklore knits. Then, sharp denim. Modernistic dresses. Floral collages. Fun with LV logo. “No rupture with last season,” Ghesquière said afterward. “It’s still a wardrobe, it’s about an instinctive mix.” Indeed there was a mix of wearable and couture-ish vibe. But it was totally Nicolas Ghesquiere. What are your thoughts about the show?

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#TBT: Shaggy Balenciaga avec 2002

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And… it’s… Thursday… The 26 looks that Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière showed here today at the Gagosian Gallery will be more scrutinized than Enron’s balance sheet. That’s because Ghesquière has become one of fashion’s magnate designers, able to change the look of a season with one outfit. Moving his Fall show to New York from Paris added a significant jolt to fashion week, increased by the fact that getting one of the 200 tickets was well-nigh impossible.The all-black opening was tough-girl chic: variations on the motorcycle jacket, with exaggerated knit collars and worn with skintight pants or tight, flippy skirts. He showed soft, oversized sweaters and jackets, and a small group of colorful knee-length collage dresses apparently influenced by Cubist paintings. Ghesquière helped usher in fashion’s current love of artisan craft, and the dramatic, shaggy ivory coats that closed the show could double as soft sculpture.

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