#TBT: Shaggy Balenciaga avec 2002

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And… it’s… Thursday… The 26 looks that Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière showed here today at the Gagosian Gallery will be more scrutinized than Enron’s balance sheet. That’s because Ghesquière has become one of fashion’s magnate designers, able to change the look of a season with one outfit. Moving his Fall show to New York from Paris added a significant jolt to fashion week, increased by the fact that getting one of the 200 tickets was well-nigh impossible.The all-black opening was tough-girl chic: variations on the motorcycle jacket, with exaggerated knit collars and worn with skintight pants or tight, flippy skirts. He showed soft, oversized sweaters and jackets, and a small group of colorful knee-length collage dresses apparently influenced by Cubist paintings. Ghesquière helped usher in fashion’s current love of artisan craft, and the dramatic, shaggy ivory coats that closed the show could double as soft sculpture.

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Fanaberie. Louis Vuitton Resort’15

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Nicolas Ghesquiere stays for good at Louis Vuitton- his latest collection was a first ever Resort collection presented on the runway. And as you surely know, it was in Monaco. The collection itself was a mash-up. The fabrics were mixed up (lace with knitwear), the colours were very radiant and vibrant and it all felt sweet and tasty. Ghesquière is still liking the fit-and-flare silhouette he introduced for Fall, but there was more diversity on the runway tonight. High-waisted, slightly flaring trousers will stir memories for fans of the leg-elongating pants he used to make at Balenciaga; on the other hand, embroidered slips with scalloped hems were among the least structured things he’s ever done. And because this was a Resort collection—in stores longer than any other season—the show ran the gamut, from a sheared fur coat to jersey T-shirt dresses. The handbag offering has grown, as well: The Petite Malle now comes with a chain handle, and he’s added a new, wide-mouthed bucket bag. In my opinion, it’s still not the fullest of what is hidden in Nicolas talent- but the collection has its strong points I like.

About the artist: Yves Klein was a French artist considered an important figure in post-war European art. He is the leading member of the French artistic movement of Nouveau réalisme founded in 1960 by art critic Pierre Restany. Klein was a pioneer in the development of Performance art, and is seen as an inspiration to and as a forerunner of Minimal art, as well as Pop art.

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