Milan by night is all about the people, who seem to be so relaxed and never in a hurry; the scent of bold flowers from the local, street kiosks; the smell of delightful Italian cuisine coming from trattorias and bristros; and the beauty of lit up architecture, which never stops mesmerising. And it’s the city, where trams look always chic – observing elder women who wear their mink coats and tweed pencil skirts entering the old-school public transport is both, a fashion moment and me-after-school defining goal.
Love you, Milan.
Yep, it’s me!
All photographs courtesy of Design & Culture by Ed
Demna Gvasalia invited the guests to a 70’s famous, gay club “Le Depot”, where his fall collection was presented. The Maison Margiela alumn nailed it, just like last season – the clothes had this “whatever” attitude shouting all over them; it’s rare in Paris nowadays to see such an alternative fashion show – just like Jacquemus, Gvasalia brings old fresh mood in interesting venues. If talking of the clothes, we can observe two major things going on in here. First, the over-size trend which seems to be a signature for this brand. Second, the “Sapeurs-Pompiers” and “Sécurité” T-shirts, which looked like they might’ve been brought out in response to the Charlie Hebdo attacks that terrified the world earlier this year. And, of course it’s impossible not to mention other pieces – the exaggerated aviator jacket, the patent leather XXL boots, the mohair mini-skirts and the motor-bad-girl jacket.
But why was the show presented in “Le Depot”?“ “In Paris all of the good clubs shut down in the 70s,” said one of the designer after the show. The club culture that once gave birth to subversive subcultures might be dead, but Vetements team are ready to inject the city’s fashion scene with a punk spirit. There was no better place for it, than a red light-lit sex club. “I feel like there is a new energy in here. We want to push it – not necessarily to bring anything back, but to give it a new life. Things are still quite dusty, old and conservative.” You better keep your mind on this brand.
Milan is a city which always makes me wonder… and it looks most gracious during the night time. You can observe peacefully gleaming shop windows, flickering neons and elegantly lightened streets. The people which go by, the pieces of art which are standing in the galleries. It all seems to be seductive and very Milano-like. If talking of evening eating, which I am good at, Paper Moon is the place where simple dishes taste better than in any fine restaurant. The penne pasta with rabbit raggu, the pizza al pastore, the parma ham with melon… and my favourite artichoke salad which is always perfectly fitted with few drops of lemon juice. Milan, you are an enchanting place.