NYC. Creatures of The Wind SS14

September 5, 2013September 5, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Surprise, surprise! NYFW just started! Full of energy and fresh designers, the first day was all about… style of New Yorker “too-cool-to-care” style, that is always bright and not banal! S, here I am writing about the first, selected by me collection of New York Fashion Week (last year we started with Alexander Wang!), Creatures of The Wind. This young label designed by duo of “cool” boys is a definition of youth and coolness of NYC people. It is a mix of python prints, colour blocks, flower embroideries, loose trousers and straight forms that look casual and at the same time extremely elegant- but with fantasy. What I seriously loved about this season at CoTW were the fabrics- beautiful, a bit rustical rose embroideries mixed with super modern materials… And the structural skirts looked like art pieces on the models silhouette. This is a extremely cool collection. Can’t wait for more NYFW that is always exciting!

If Mendini was REI.

August 4, 2013January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday in the evening I was viewing my old photographs from New York, just you know, for pleasure. But pleasure changed into inspiration. I found a small pic of a Mendini sculpture that is located in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The colors, shape just stunned me. I was like, Oh my this Alessandro Mendini things is amazing. I took out my book about this designer that I bought in NY, and was like again, Oh my this is incredible. Yes, Alessandro Mendini is a amazing designer from Italy, that was not designing anything functional but just beautiful and experimental. He used some extraordinary creatures on his furniture and strong colors everywhere! He was bored with our grey existence, and decided to do something nobody else before. But, now, you for sure ask a question, why is a Comme des Garcons AW13 show snap doing on this post? Because my quirky imagination thought of this crazy collection and Mendini’s designs together! Rei Kawabuko is Comme des Garcons designer from the beginning, and her clothes are like a origami- always aesthetic and sophisticated. This season was about making a mascuine jacket an origami. Sounds strange. But as you see, looks great! And the prints plus forms are so similar to Mendini’s! Wow!

The New Yorkers

June 8, 2013November 3, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Resort 2014 is already arriving everyday with tones of new collcetions, and it’s the time when the the hottest designers of New York already went for a nap, and the Europeans have just woke up before the Resort/Haute Couture Fashion Weeks. So here it is- a short review of Resort’14 in New York, that covers Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Balenciaga (it’s Parisian, but for me, because of Wang as head, it’s New York), Derek Lam and Jason Wu. So lets begin with… The PS brothers, Proenza Schouler!Well, Proenza Schouler is getting every season more mature and colourless, as you can see. Creme, white and grey colours, comfortable forms and warm prints. And it looks very similar to the Pre-Fall collection. There is no excitment, because clearly Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stand for practicality, and their fantastic unique ideas are on the other side. Sad, because that was really different from others. Now it’s a bit Ralph Lauren- boring, classical.From some time I really love what Joseph Altuzarra is doing recently- first he did a amazing AW13 collection, then took Stella Tennant as a muse… The resort is how he said, sensitive and very femine, but not as sexy as his past ones. We’ve got some wild west pants here and a bit cowboy shirts mixed with modern elegance. Beautiful fur scarves, white dresses, lace and gold, do really match Altuzarra style! No, I’m not crazy. Balenciaga officially IS Parisian, but since Alexander Wang is the creative director, it lost all Parisian Chick. The collection began from Wang’s visit at Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Yes. Then, Alex did nothing more, but copied the archives and made them black and white. When Ghesquiere designed Balenciaga, it was inspired by archives, but it was futuristic, edgy, modern. Now, with Mr. Wang it looks only into past, and just makes a first look that it’s SO FRESH bacause of the colour palette. I thought it won’t be so bad. Now even Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is much more better for me.Derel Lam maybe is not a newcomer, but for sure a shooting star of NYC Fashion. This resort was minimalistic, eometrical and full of inovative fabrics. The dresses are at the time perfect for a shopping at Bergdof’s Goodman, for a run in Central Park and as well for a dinner in Nobu Tribeca. Is it a New York Celine? For now I see big future for Derek!Jason Wu suprised me this Resort season. I usuall didn’t really like Jason Wu’s collection because they were always so formal. But, this time I am pleased! Lots of new materials, fantastic paradise prints, jeans jacketa and midi skirts, plastic trench coats, pink bra’s, transparent lace dresses… There is really a lot of telling. For sure Michelle Obama won’t wear any of these, but it looks more affordable than ever! Jason Wu, big bravo’s for the best (exequies with Marc Jacobs galmorous collection I wrote few days ago)!