De Luxe. Area AW18

February 13, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

For a few seasons, Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg‘s collections were New York fashion week’s escape to a cosmic-glam odyssey. With that niche, in fact, Area became a local trend-setter, that gets quickly copied by not only the up-and-coming labels, but the big players. This season, the designers took a more down-to-earth approach, but that doesn’t mean the collection was less disctinct to the brand’s identity. With more go-to pieces in offer, like adorably ruffled blazers or striped knits, Area smartly aims at the retailers. But the ‘she’s so fetch’ attitude is present, as usual – just note the leopard spots print, patchworked on a coat or used for slim pants. Crystal trimmings on the dresses and skirts are dramatically chic, wherever you are. Faux-fur appeared in all the fun places as well, while the intriguingly shaped hats brought a de luxe cowboy feel (think Madonna in Music video-clip). Some say that New York is short of young talent. Well, look at Area and better reconsider what you’ve said.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Lucid. Sies Marjan AW18

February 12, 2018February 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While for the last few seasons I didn’t really understand Sander Lak‘s phenomenon, his autumn-winter 2018 collection looks, well, really good to me. Since the start of his eponymous label, Sies Marjan, Lak indulged himself in pastels mostly. “Last season was light, a dreamy state. This is still a dream but an intense one. Not a nightmare, not a happy dream, not a wet dream.” Then, a lucid dream! This time around, it’s more about psychedelic ombré of iris purple, crimson red, deep blue and forest green. Colour has always been his soft spot, and the collection shows how good the designer is in mixing and crushing the most unlikely palettes. From gowns draped with taffeta and cute shearling jackets to slouchy suits and relaxed pajama shirts, it’s like a delightful, yet demanding, spectrum of must-haves. If Sander’s latest collection had its colour palette’s name, I would definitely call it the ‘sweet melancholia’.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Big. Victoria Beckham AW18

February 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday’s Victoria Beckham show was special – it didn’t only celebrate the label’s 10th annversary, but as well it was the last show presented in New York (the designer is switching for London, where her fam is. And Spice Girls, of course!). What you’ve seen 10 years ago in a Beckhamcollection, and what you see now, is diametrically, even dramatically, different. No more body-con, cocktail dresses and killer stilettos. Quite the opposite – loosely fit maxi-dresses, luxe hoodies and masculine coats. But what I appreciated the most in her autumn-winter 2018 collection were the felt bags – so big! Especially, the lilac one stole my heart. Really, you can carry anything in it, from let’s say kittens (as the collage above presents) to an entire, additional outfit for change. Beckham, since her radical change in fashion aesthetics, must adore Phoebe Philo – I think it’s not hard to notice some very distinct Célinisms here. But since Philo left Céline, where will ‘those’ women shop next autumn? Well, Victoria might have the answer.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

I’m Bossy. Alexander Wang AW18

February 11, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Staged in a former Condé Nast office, filled with corporate cubicle walls, Alexander Wang‘s autumn-winter 2018 fashion show’s venue promised a lot. Glass-ceiling breaking! Female empowerment! Strong, business dressing! All that came to my mind instantly. But did the designer deliver anything worthwhile? Except the Matrix reference and lots of black, nothing else, honestly. It’s hard to imagine a working woman wear any of those dominatrix mini-dresses and leather skirts with slits in the most NSFW spots. Not that sexy is bad. I’m not trying to sound puritan! But I just don’t think this theme really works for Wang, and his ‘party girl’ roots. If it was just another Wang-ish collection, it would at least feel persuasive. He tried to do something mature, maybe. Sadly, the result is a mash-up of current Saint Laurent, vintage Mugler and Gucci-era Tom Ford, in wrong context. Fingers crossed that the trip to Paris next season will be slightly more succesful for the designer…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Personal. A Détacher AW18

February 11, 2018February 11, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Even though ‘intimacy’ seems to be distant among New York-based designers, there’s Mona Kowalska of A Détacher. With her cozy store in Nolita, a growing client base of smart women, and a great sensibility for prints and fabrics, Mona’s presence on the schedule is off-the-radar, but worth taking a look at. This season, the Polish-born designer left behind the idea of references and specfic inspirations. Rather, she focused on her personal style, that has developed into something unique throughout the years of working in fashion. Distorted blazers over beige turtlenecks; crotchet knits styled with floral blouses; very lovely, shaggy cardigans worn casually over a matching in colour dress. While styling plays an important role at A Détacher, it’s the clothes that do the work – I think that’s the essence behind the label.