Energy. Proenza Schouler AW14

February 18, 2014August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

There was a clue before the show. The invitation. It was all about multicoloured pieces of spongy fabric pressed into cardboard and words written down “energy, abstraction, humour, action, colour, instinct, spontaneous, fast”. And yep, that was fast indeed. The models walked (rushed) threw the runway, with their heads down on the floor.
Surprisingly spite of the precision cutting and fabrics that often looked like carpet underlay, now looked charming rather weird. Proenza as always broke the rules- fabrics that don’t tend to be matched for example with neoprene were all mixed up here.
Wearing sandals with socks and Cristobal Balenciaga inspired cuts and forms, the collection was rapidly named majah (first fashion people used to say major- now it’s majah!) by the New Yorkers and me. Oh, and the soundtrack? Missy Elliot’s “Work” remix. It matched the fast vibe of the show perfectly.

Apocalyptic. Rodarte AW14

February 17, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Let the power be with you” said one of the Star Wars character. The Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte got really into Sci-Fi movies this season… The collection had a very interesting, rather philosophical sense- first, grandma’s knitwear sweaters, bag and dress embroidery. All kept in stardust bright fabrics and Swarovski crystals. The models stroked poses in quirky cardigans, and then dramatically changed their under-the-knee skirts into Star Wars printed gown. Well. Sounds pretty unstable. But surely that was a perfect Rodarte collection. That was really Rodarte.

Harmony. Derek Lam AW14

February 16, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Derek Lam was talking about Buddhism, Tibet and Asian silence backstage before his AW14 show. No wonder why- the collection was kept in total, beautiful harmony. And possibly, this made the collection by Lam one of the best to date. Loose sweatshirts, comfy fur clutches, fragile dresses were my favourites. The craftsmanship was also great with all thes delicate embroideries… But what I love most about Derek Lam, is his colour palette. So clean! The colours match perfectly. Zennnnnnnnnn…

Girl Gang. Marc by Marc Jacobs AW14

February 16, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Big changes came to the cheaper line of Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs. First of all the new designers full of fresh energy- Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier. Second of all- name change into MBMJ (it was written on these adorable socks!). And third of all… It’s something you wouldn’t expect at this innocent label for girls. Inspired with Geri Halliwell’s early years, ninjas, Harley Davidson girls and Charles Dickens, the two Brits bring something very fresh and energetic for us. Definitely, last season MBMJ was really unspotted and not buzzed about when Marc showed his SS14 collection… Whoever Mrs. Hillier and Bartley are, they did a good job for new Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Bang-Bang. Alexander Wang AW14

February 15, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

AW14 for Alexander Wang meant a big fuss. First of all, the runway happened not as usually at the Lincoln Centre, but in Brooklyn. And second of all, the guests and models of the show didn’t arrive to the show by a casual taxi cab but… With a boat taxi! That was surely cool. After the whole buzz, the show began. And that was possibly the best show to date created by Wang. That was like a huge BANG-BANG! First the models went down the runway in tailored masculine jackets and high, rubber boots. Later, neon colours thrilled threw the knitwear, sporty coats and hyper-cool bags. With illuminating light swirling on the runway, the top models (Karlie, Natasha, Joan, etc.) having bleached eyebrows wore radiant coloured leather lace tops and dresses. Everything looked out of this world… Fast, energetic, cool, fun. The real spirit of New York. I LOVE THAT.