Tibi is my moment’s favourite “affordable” label. It’s crush is all about comfortable clothes for everyday. The AW14 was a bit of coven witches – long black coats styled with black boleros. But not only black was present here… Also, the lovely pastel blue which made all fluffy coats and fur trimmed mules look awesome. The effortless causality that Tibi presents is… TIBIshly cool.
It’s not the first time that Joseph Altuzarra takes inspirations from Celine’s Phoebe Philo. But the AW14 is critically close to the “copying” boundary. Seriously- see Celine’s SS14 collection, and then compare it with Altuzarra’s AW14. The collection of the New Yorker is a bit more toned and elegant, without the vibrant craziness and artistic touch… But. Me, saying that the collection is a bit too “inspired”, doesn’t mean I dislike it. I love the jewellery (again, note Celine!), the rug texture tops and signature femme fatale Altuzarra dresses and interesting accessories… But overally nothing new this season. Although, the make-up looks are great with these radiant colours!
Prabal Gurung, one of the hottest names in New York, surely brings as some Asian culture this season. In reality, the original inspiration that ruled in here, was found in the place, where Prabal’s parents came from- Nepal. After his last trip to his home-country, Gurung brought so many new ideas… No wonder why the collection was all about orange tunics that are worn by Himalayan monks! They were buzzing around on whole Instagram… But still, although the collection was a bit out of old route of the designer, some signature touch was here- sweaters styled with wispy chiffon skirts and of course the red carpet gowns kept in warm, red colours. “It’s one of the last remaining Shangri-Las” he said of his beautiful country. Surely it is, looking at these fantastic clothes.
Suno, the adorable New York based label knows how to make best quality clothes so simple and at the same time… Cool. Their AW14 was a mix of New Yorker minimalism and beautiful, Latin American traditional printing & embroidery from the past. Aztecs, Incas, Olmecs- they all found their place in this collection in posture of beautiful tops, trousers and dresses. This collection reminds me a lot of early Celine from 2008, when Phoebe Philo threw the new dimension of over-sized, large navajo styled tunics… That was a real hit back then! I certainly loved the red elements on the last looks- vibrant and radiant at the same time. Surely, Suno is a label to know about…
The Jason Wu collection for AW14 was… Jason Wu. Inspired with Marlene Dietrich and New York 70’s ladies, the mostly black/grey collection had few hot picks. For example the parkas. Who doesn’t like black, leather parkas with fur? Or some of these loose gowns that were rocked by Karlie Kloss and Jordan Dunn. They also seem to be a all-time classic by Jason. Surely that wasn’t one of the outstanding collection created from this designer, but here is a news: Jason Wu is the new creative director of Boss- the affordable German label known for boring simple pieces for women and men. So, maybe Jason Wu will roll it up this Wednesday… Hopefully.
Design & Culture by Ed 