Metal. Anthony Vaccarello SS14

September 24, 2013September 24, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

When Anja Rubik opens a show in a sexy black jacket at Anthony Vaccarello, then… Well, there is no possibility it will be a dissapoinment! With a huge dose of sex appeal, the SS14 collection from this emerging designer is something unbelievably simple, but at the same time cool. Vaccarello is famous for his amazing sexy cuts, bandage dresses and great use of leather… Do you remember the Met Gala red leather dress that Anja wore? The motif of it was already Summer 2014 that has too a similar look. I also loved the dyed jeans- something new at Anthony, while for few seasons we see only mini skirt or evening gowns… For the first Paris Fashion Week collection this season, it feels already… Parisian. And that’s why this my favourite fashion week of all!

Men’s: Mature Cool. Kenzo SS14

June 29, 2013June 29, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was a little bit disappointed with the new Kenzo collection for men. The entrance was superb- a fruit mosaic on the floor, market stalls with Kenzo fresh juices and so on- in other words colours. But that was just the opposite to the clothes that were presented in a huge hall with tribunes around. Models walked on a circular platform very close to the front row, and then went up the stairs on the highest “stage” of this huge chamber, standing, and presenting the cool jackets, bags and many more. It’s all sounds great, but the collection unfortunately wasn’t so good.
The first look gave first impression- boring elegant sportswear. In blue colours. Then it was all grey with some hind of confetti print. Then red phase with black elements on the tshirts. It’s all boring, but cool and kind if nice. There were few cool looks, but last season was much better. Unfortunately, that wasn’t this what I was expecting. Not youthful and full of colourful, but MATURE TO DEATH. And now we won’t wear the Kenzo Tigers but Kenzo Tsunamis.

Men’s: Les Tres Hommes

June 27, 2013June 27, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

HAIDER ACKERMAN- This is his first menswear collection since 2010! From this time I was waiting and waiting and now it is- Haider Ackerman SS14 for men! It is really superb! Of course everyone knew how it more or less will look like- very Haider style. The presentation was similar to women’s- satin, chiffon, silk, dark colour palete were seen and this type of clothing like crotch pants and loose tops. I called this collection an Andalusian chic. First of all the colours- red, orange, kakki, all in dark tones. And it’s all super male style and modern at the same time! Plus the model’s tattoos look marvelous. This collection beats all menswear SS14 for now!
RAF SIMONS- the designer of Dior didn’t suprise nor was bad. It was very Raf- minimalism, prints, shorts, socks and broques. I would wear SOME of these T-shirts, but the rest wasn’t my type. The prints were all about industrial packages, like for example of clusters. But in reality the collection wasn’t very different from last Summer. However it was good!

VALENTINO- it was very classy and still was connected to last season- camo. The sweatshirts and shoes were all over covered with camo! The rest was just as great as this print. Sophisticated sport elegance, leather pockets on shirts, cool trousers and beautiful colours of blue and orange. That was a very casual collection mixed with luxury and cool touch! Love it!

Paris Fashion Week SS12 Higligths

October 5, 2012June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dior- Raf Simon’s debut. Our favorite Dior collection that was shown in those 10 years! Minimalism mixed with sequins and great lite materials and colours. Those are clothes for women to buy and wear. We are totally for YES to Raf Simons!Saint Laurent- The next hot debut but not as good as the first one. Hedi Slimane for YSL. In other words, wild west and sexy cowgirls. For me nothing new, however world critics graded it for a 5+. Alber Elbaz told as it was “very YSL”, Pierre Berge said that Hedi understood the style of YSL and Kate Moss ensured as that she wants everything from the show.Chalayan- A great collection. The mix of prints, casual denim on dresses and does extraordinary hats are just the key trend for this summer. Louis Vuitton- Oh My God. A total fail. Too much of colourful check patterns, colourful pants, colourful shoes and tops!!! The only interesting thing about the show was that the models were transported by the elevators. Marc, next time have bigger distance to colours and check pattern!Celine- Till now I don’t understand, what was sitting in the head of Philo Phoebe when she was designing those clothes. We know she was pregnant, but the hormon storm doesn’t change anything! Those are not ironic projects, controled kitch. This is just a fashion horror. This is unfortunately one of the worst collection for this season. However the bags are wonderful!Alexander McQueen- Honey bees were in the details at Alexander McQueen’s spring 2013 collection, which drew inspiration from queen bees presiding over the nest. Gold collars shaped like bee clusters and hexagonally-woven hats seemed both ominous and protective on the runway. But what caught our eyes were the regal details like this red cotton off-the-shoulder dress, reminiscent of the neckline and sleeves popularized under Queen Victoria’s reign and updated with a plunging v-neck. And that was a really interesting collection, I should say!Balenciaga- The inspiration of the show- ballette show of Murice Ravel, Bolero ( when Cristobal Balenciaga, his label was designing in 30’s the costumes for the show). The skirts with flounces, and white tops are making as thinking about classical Spain, and the peaceful and delicate coloristic makes it more modern.Felipe Olivier Baptista- I see here a brand new hot brand on horizon! It is Olivier Baptista. This season he showed as creative ways of wearing spoty, French chick with classical beige sandals and colourful prints.Miu Miu- We understand that Miuccia Prada love sfurs, but that doesn’t mean we need to see at Miu Miu’s Summer collection! The colours are very dull and unpleasant, those safrocs and pijamas are the best for a cold nigts and I still can’t understand what the hell was the main topic of the collection… I liked more the Prada collection for this season- however the shoes there were much more worst than those here.

Stella McCartney- Sporty, fresh and modern. We LOVE it! Paul McCartney, Stella’s dad, said that the collection was “quite wholy”! :)Maison Martin Margiela- Quite boring collection. Minimalism to the power of 2. Clothes were unfashionably too big on models. However it was quite “kind to an eye”. I mean, have a look at LV show and compare with MMM.Chanel- One of the best shows. Clothes were classical but with a note of youth and modern. The colours and shades are perfect for summer, and we know already that the pearls are bag in fashion. This collection is great from lots of reason but this one is for sure the truth- it is Chanel!

Fashion show is unfortunately finished. There were lots of good and bad collections for summer… We saw New York, Milan, London and Paris and in reality all were super cool!!!