Magdalena. Magda Butrym AW25

Marking a new decade of creativity, Magda Butrym unveils her most personal collection yet: “Magdalena“. Derived from her full name, which she uses privately, “Magdalena” is an intimate self-portrait that reflects the Polish designer’s raw self-expression while staying true to her brand’s distinct identity.

For autumn-winter 2025, Butrym draws deep inspiration from the emotional depth of poetry and the tactile beauty of knitwear – an art form that holds a significant place in modern and contemporary Polish culture. Weaving has been a defining theme in Polish art for over a century, and with “Magdalena“, the designer pays tribute to this craft through fashion. Influenced by visionaries such as Magdalena Abakanowicz, Paulina Ołowska, and generations of skilled Polish artisans, Butrym infuses the handmade artistry of weaving into key elements of the collection, from eveningwear to the set design of the showcase.

Magdalena” is shaped by a blend of influences, all filtered through Butrym’s Slavic sensibility. The rich possibilities of loom weaving allow the designer to experiment with texture in unexpected ways. Artisanal dresses, like the striking red mini and the open-knit tutu paired with a black slip, are crafted from intricate blends of yarns and techniques that sculpt the female form in unapologetic beauty. The show’s final look, a wedding dress with a crochet veil and cloud-like textured pumps, is one of the designer’s most personal pieces. Densely woven and rich in texture, its petal-like silhouette echoes traditional Polish tapestries made from the finest, softest yarns. Kept in white – a color symbolizing freedom and new beginnings – it embodies Butrym’s vision of Slavic expressionism, merging handcrafted artistry with a sensual, empowered femininity.

Since “Magdalena” is a deeply personal project, the collection naturally includes elements of Butrym’s everyday style. A sense of modern practicality contrasts with the dreamier elements: a raw shearling coat is effortlessly draped over a luxe tracksuit, while fur shawls are layered atop duvet jackets. To reinforce the brand’s signature aesthetic, Butrym incorporates a vivid, floral headscarf – a defining motif of Slavic heritage. A selection of sculpted black dresses, designed with ultra-feminine, hourglass silhouettes, draws inspiration from the traditional shapes of Polish folk costumes. These looks also pay homage to the enigmatic, powerful women captured in Peter Lindbergh’s iconic photographs – figures who walk confidently along cold, wintry beaches. “I find those images incredibly strong and beautiful,” the designer reflects.

The “Magdalena” collection came to life in a show space that fully embodies its spirit. For this one-of-a-kind, immersive environment, approximately 200 meters of fabric were woven – an intricate process requiring over 150 hours of craftsmanship. Suspended from the ceiling, these woven linen and alpaca pieces underwent meticulous treatments, including warp winding, threading, and precision tying, creating a mist-like, semi-sheer frill effect. These delicate, handcrafted installations echo “Magdalena“’s approach to femininity and craft. Their deep, saturated red hue references the Enchanted Rose, the eternal symbol of Magda Butrym’s brand. As the models move freely through the ethereal setting, they not only animate the space but also embody the essence of the “Magdalena” woman.

For Magda Butrym, “Magdalena” marks the beginning of a more instinctive, experimental phase in her work – one driven by pure emotion and the joy of creation. While it presents a bold, new perspective, it is still deeply rooted in the essence of her brand. The collection embraces novelty, yet its unmistakable spirit—delicate yet strong, sensual yet powerful – remains entirely true to Magda Butrym’s vision. It is a daring, fearless exploration of self, revealing the designer’s artistry in a way never seen before, yet instantly recognizable.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Goth & Fit. Rick Owens AW25

This season’s Rick Owens man is both goth and fit. He will show off his muscular torso while wearing a crop-top with padded, Nosferatu-sih shoulders. Tyron Dylan, Rick’s muse, looked like the yassified version of Count Orlock. The elongated, supernatural look was omnipresent in the autumn-winter 2025 collection. This time, the designer was interested in the idea of essentials. Cropped shearling sweaters and coats in black were cut up to the base of the rib cage, while double-face wool caftans in cream were cut down to the knee. Skimpy wide-leg shorts were (sometimes) made secure with thermal long johns of a type Owens only became an evangelical fan of after moving from California to Europe. “It’s about, How can I get rid of stuff and make the stuff that I really need as special as possible?’ And that is a good exercise when thinking about making clothes in the world the way it is today.” It was also a good exercise in showing clothes that, once acquired, you’d wish never to be parted from.

ED’s SELECTION:

Rick Owens Satin Wide-leg Cargo Pants


Rick Owens Drain T Paneled Cotton-jersey And Crepe De Chine Top


Rick Owens x Moncler Appliquéd Wool And Cashmere-blend Balaclava


Rick Owens Cropped Bleached Brushed-cotton Bomber Jacket


Rick Owens x Converse Drkshdw Dbl Drkstar Canvas High-top Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Soldiers Of Love. Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus AW25

For the second season in a row, I had the unbelievably beautiful experience of seeing the Comme Des Garçons collection IRL, at the brand’s showroom near Place Vendome in Paris. It’s always quite a striking contrast: first you’ve got to cross all the bling-bling flagships, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, and then you suddenly immerse into the world of Comme. And if you’re lucky, Rei Kawakubo, the mastermind creative and founder of the brand, stands there, just behind the glass wall of her office, keeping her finger pretty much everything this company stands for. Really, not many 82-year old designers of her status are that present in their brands. Actually, not many designers of any age are THAT present in their brands.

Visiting the Comme Des Garçons showroom lets you truly understand Kawakubo’s clothes. Of course, attending the label’s fashion show is a dream, ranked high up in my wishlist of things to do. But at the showroom, you can see the garments upclose, feel their emotional deepness, and be struck by their extraordinary craftsmanship. Sharing the space with the designer herself adds a TRUE Benjamin-esque aura to it, too.

The autumn-winter 2025 collection from the menswear Homme Plus line had a loud, clear statement: “To hell with war”. Confronting the reality that young boys and men are being called up for army service, being sent to kill or be killed by countries across the world, can easily fall dumb-flat in case of fashion. But not when Kawakubo does it, so poignantly and movingly. And in any case, her position was straightforward: her young Comme soldiers are peaceniks. Their metal hats self-decorated with flowers or wrapped in fancy, vintage fabrics felt naive, but in a heart-warming, hopeful way. In their deconstructed field jackets and brass-buttoned army officer’s uniforms, they were “soldiers of love”, as Sade once sang.

Rebel and resist. For love, beauty and freedom. Rei, you’re a force.

ED’s SELECTION:

Comme Des Garçons x PHILEO Melted Derby Shoes


Comme Des Garçons Oversized Gabardine Leaf-Print Sport Coat


Comme des Garçons Pleated Wool Grain De Poudre Midi Skirt


Comme des Garçons Ruffled Wool-blend Jacket


Comme des Garçons Ruffled Cropped Shell Straight-leg Pants

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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French Men. Fursac AW25

Nobody understands French guys’ style like Gauthier Borsarello. Since his appointment in 2021, the designer – and avid vintage collector, just check his ReSee selection! – has worked relentlessly to redefine Fursac’s position in contemporary menswear. This season he presented the brand’s first runway collection: an utterly chic mix of great tailoring with seductive nonchalance (dialed up with unexpected details like yellow leather gloves or crotchet ties), so natural to Parisian men. Executed with the styling help of Imruh Asha, the collection plays with the style images of renowned Frenchmen: think Jacques Dutronc, Alain Delon, and the boys of Nouvelle vague.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Gesture. Hed Mayner AW25

The gesture allows the clothes to exist,” said Hed Mayner backstage at his autumn-winter 2025 fashion show a week ago. How true this sentence is. You can have the most finely made garment in the universe, but if it just hangs in the closet, does it even matter? Clothes need a person’s gesture to be alive. But some clothes work harder, and once they are given life, they in return transform the wearer’s body language.

Of all contemporary menswear designers, Mayner balances utility with beauty of clothes in the most supreme way. And his new season perfecto jackets, leather pants and fringed shawls not only make you want to wear them, but also gesticulate in them – a lot. The fit of his over-sized wool-felt coat is so graphic and bold it creates a real silhouette. Same can be said of the sharp, yet round-edged plaid tailoring and meaty-velvet culottes. I can totally confirm what I’m saying, as I had the utmost pleasure of trying some of these garments in the label’s showroom. They truly transform your stature, give confidence, but at the same time seamlessly convey this “don’t bother me” attitude, just like Yohji Yamamoto’s designs.

ED’s SELECTION:

Hed Mayner  Oversized Hooded Bomber Jacket


Hed Mayner Oversized Terry Sweatpants


Hed Mayner Inverted-Lapel Oversized Sport Coat


Hed Mayner Large Inverted Pleat Pants

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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