Bye, Alber.

October 31, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“At this time of my departure from Lanvin on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder,” he writes, “I wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the last 14 years . . . together, we have met the creative challenge presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury houses.”

Alber Elbaz, one of the most loyal fashion designers, was officially fired from the house of Lanvin. After 14 years of beautiful, feminine collections, he was simply asked to leave, due to the fact he opposed to the unbelievable speed of fashion industry, which makes major designers feel frustration, and young designers struggle. Throughout his career, Alber presented and tried to prolifically approach the house of revolutionary Jeanne Lanvin – four collections a year for women, and two for men designed together with Lucas Ossendrijver. But still, the share-holders of the brand felt dissatisfied with Elbaz. And this causes a big problem in the fashion industry system – where is it heading to? To even bigger desire of consumerism? To more and more of beauty? Wait. Even the most couture-ish gown looses its beauty in this situation. The best example of that is a 500 euro jacket, that H&M will soon sell in collaboration with Balmain. Who cares that it’s beautifully embroidered, if it was produced in thousands of exemplars. This isn’t really on topic right now, but people who are planning to buy this jacket at H&M for such a price… well, then good-luck with completing your wardrobe with too expensive Made in China clothes.

But coming back to Alber Elbaz and his Lanvin history. When I have looked back at all of his collections this morning, I nearly cried. His signature, draped dresses. His opulent, yet simply cut tops. The ruffled details. The new definition of Parisian chic, that we all know understand thanks to Elbaz’ silhouettes and ways of dressing women. After those 14 years, it feels like Alber rebuilt the legacy of this French house, giving a lot of future references to the designer that will be soon announced. I just wonder who will be so desperate to work with such “demanding” and ignorant owners. Any guesses?

Parisian Update. Celine Resort’16

October 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a kind of fashion tradition, that we see Celine‘s pre-collection just few weeks before they hit the stores. When Phoebe Philo introduced this rule, the fashion system shifted. No wonder why – when we see the pre-collections six months before they are really available, there is a kind of deja vu feeling later on. There is a lack of excitement. When Philo drops her pre-collection, there is this surprise effect that certainly moves the brand’s customers when they walk into the stores. The resort 2016 is a true pleasure, both for the eye and the desire sense. The collection is a modern version of a French wardrobe – here, you will surely find a striped shirt, high-waisted pants and a raffia tote from the Basque summer adventures. Also, the wardrobe contains an essence of minimal, French glamour, which was strong in the 60’s & 70’s Paris – take the green, Pierre Cardin-like vest or Yves Saint Laurent safari trench-coat, revisited with some arty patterns. There is the feeling of a “woman who travels” in this collection, too – the Babouche slippers convey the oriental mood and the eclectic jewellery brought from Milan’s most edgy flea-markets and antiquaries. In brief, Phoebe wins my heart, as usual. Is this something new?

Effective Basics. Lemaire SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lemaire and his woman are seasonless. Her wardrobe is built from basic, but high-quality pieces, like a hearty leather coat, a pair of high-waisted flares and open-toe heels. She doesn’t care about trends – she puts on her scarf in a non-chalant way and feels easy, comfortable and chic. And that’s precisely what Christophe Lemaire‘s simple, but effective fashion is all about.

Parisian Woman. Anthony Vaccarello SS16

October 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Anthont Vaccarello‘s spring-summer 2016 collection was not only the hottest of all, but also the most descriptive in terms of a Parisian woman, who parties at night-clubs and eats her all-time favourite steak at Hotel Costes. Femme fatale shirts played an important role in the collection – worn with black ties, they looked utterly chic. Just like the cut-out skirts that gave the guests some legs. The second part of the collection was devoted to the Polish top-model, Anja Rubik, who is Anthony’s muse and friend. Her bold, characteristic face appeared in form of pixeled prints on tank-tops and dresses, making the collection sharp and graphic. The looks that closed the show, however, were much more casual. Anthony experimented with denim (a quiet nod to his Versus Versace collaboration) and exposure. The mini-skirts made the models look fierce and with attitude. Although you might say that Vaccarello revisits the Parisian chic cliché (google Emmanuelle Alt), you must admit – he does that in a bon way!

Parisian Chic

June 7, 2015August 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Parisian chic has always been an inspiration for designers – but some simply have it in their blood, even if they are not totally from Paris. As I am excited about my Parisian trip which will take place soon, I thought about creating a list of my favourite brands with this famous Parisian attitude.

Celine by Phoebe Philo. The most Parisian of them all. Why? The Celine woman tends to wear black turtleneck dresses with casual, white trainers. Also, this intriguing woman carries her Hobo bag with a chic “so whatever” attitude, giving no s*** whether somebody is going to steal her calfskin wallet. That AMAZING woman is super assertive regarding her beliefs, too, and loves a good book (maybe Patrick Mondiano, for example). Where? You can meet her mostly everywhere in Paris – she might be eating french fries at the fancy L’Avenue or visit Musee d’Orsay for the 2nd time in the month.

Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Although the designer is based in New York, her chic clothes are reflecting Paris. Why? Just look at this outfit. It is so Amelia. A cute pea coat, toned orange midi skirt and comfortable flats. Where? In the Metro Paris. On the Clignancourt flea market.

Crista Seya. Her camel pieces are Parisian essentials. Why? Crista Seya woman feels an aversion towards logos and truly enjoys eponymous labels. Her shoes are made in Argentina while the “travel” bag is always on fleek. However you can’t say that about her outfit – slouchy pantalons, deep layer of knits and over-sized coat. Where? I see her in the Latin Quarter district. It would perfectly suit her lovely messiness.

(Christophe) Lemaire. The wardrobe of a Parisian woman. Why? Lemaire’s collections are concentrated on basics. Well tailored trousers, masculine blazers, soft cashmere sweaters and casual shirts are his essentials. Where? Rue du Saint Honore. Not too fancy and not too modest. Very #treschic!

Haider Ackermann. If Phoebe Philo is the queen of Parisian chic, then Haider is the king. Why? Ackermann is the master of layering. Also, he fuses masculine jackets and trousers with feminine silhouettes (flawless pleated skirts, for example) in a marvelous way. Where? Le Marais district is Haider’s place. Its edginess and off-beat vibe matches the designer’s style in a very good way…

AU REVOIR!