Meeting Ormaie

About a month and half ago (yes, I know it’s been a while… but the coverage of all the fashion weeks going on felt like an eternity), I went to Warsaw for Galilu’s intimate meeting with the mum-and-son duo behind Ormaie Paris, a niche perfume label that’s more than just a scent. Ormaie is a family run fragrance maison with roots deep in art and nature. Creativity is at the heart of the brand – Ormaie’s founders, Marie-Lise Jonak and Baptiste Bouygues, have brought together artists and artisans to write each chapter of the Ormaie story. All of the Ormaie fragrances (there are seven) are composed solely of natural ingredients with the ultimate goal of elegance and quality. The ultra-chic, geometrical flacons attract the eyes; the titles and descriptions of each of the perfumes excite the mind. Let’s see. Yvonne is modern homage to the classical feminine perfume, blending rose and the chypre notes with the scent of red fruits (and it appealed to me so much that I had to get it the moment I discovered it at Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées in Paris). Toï Toï Toï, a German expression ballet dancers say to wish good luck before going on to perform, labels a fragrance that evokes polished wooden boards of the stage and the dancer’s waxed ballet shoes. Meanwhile L’Ivrée Bleue is a narcotic scent that depicts the eroticism of Gauguin and the jungle themes of Rosseau. It smells dark vanilla, of rum and of the scents of the island. Oh my.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

On My (Perfume) Shelf

Hello in 2019! The festive season appeared to be very, very fruitful in Santa gifts… here are the two fragrances I’ve completely lost my mind for. Also, it appears I’m a sucker for tonka bean.

Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene / You’re walking down a cold street in England, listening to Joy Division, sipping on a warm cup of London Fog. This fragrance opens up with the smooth sweetness of honey with Earl Grey tea, with a zing of lemon. It dries down to a cozy vanilla, soft tonka bean and waffle cone base, sure to make any gourmand lover smileNotes? Earl Grey tea, lemon, bergamot, honey, tonka bean, baramel, vanilla and waffle cone.

Tonka 25 by Le Labo / This one is dark. A good, addictive, warm dark, as if the humid summer underwoods, their seeds and resins, were sprinkled with layers of musks and sweetened with drops of vanilla. The perfumer’s notes say orange flower absolute, the unique cedar atlas, styrax resins, absolute tonka and musks… get this one right in here.

Photo by Edward Kanarecki.

Goest Perfumes

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Reading about perfumes is a bad idea, especially when you want to try them out so badly. So, beware. Goest Perfumes is a fragrance house coming from Los Angeles. Jacqueline Steele‘s offerings are unisex fragrances with a so-called ‘intuitive aesthetic’. You might have just thought: what?! Shortly, each scent is uniquely composed to work with, not against, the scent of the human body, with internal structures that mimic the effect of living things, and real scenes. So, it’s not a mistake if you think of Goest’s creations as of ‘living’ perfumes.

When you browse their site, you will find the How to choose a perfume tab. Prepare yourelf for the next dose of surprises. Each of the scents is absolutely different – and not just on such grounds like whether they’re based on floral or smokey notes. Depending on your habits, grooming products and even the weather, your daily smell will have specific characteristics. To suit all those lifestyle variables, Goest created the seven fragrances. For the users of fresh-scented laundry detergents, there’s Lartigue. Realism and Grand Tour “grab” into the human sweat and dress it in additional cleanliness and sensuality. Also, Grand Tour is the perfect choice for frequent fliers. Then we’ve got Dauphine (inspired by the imageries of Sofia Coppola’s film Marie Antoinette), which has a freshly sweet, rosewater-scented scent that is perfectly fits hot climate. But for many, the most sensational is Smoker’s Perfume. Goest made a fragrance specifically for smokers, and it isn’t meant to cover up the smell of smoke, but to enhance and beautify that strong scent on clothing, hair and skin. It completes the smell of cigarette smoke, which makes the only fragrance of its kind. Even though I don’t smoke… I find this exciting.

I thought that the world of niche perfumes has seen it all. Well. Goest is a proof that olfactory sensations have no limits.

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Odor 93

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“In my dreamlike journey you can find the essence of the mystique cycle second chapter.
 Getting lost in the collective unconsciousness, and only far away from that place, getting the meaning. As in a dream, Narcissus’ and Tuberose’s bodies in flower, tell the way through the birch forest step by step, where the animal lives and people celebrate the fairy tale ritual, spiritual and mental place of perfume.
There are distant places in the world that are linked together by a thin, imaginary thread. I have tried to create a fragrance for this invisible bond, I have found a heart in flower in the forest, I have listened to the animal speaking, I have seen the end of the day, I have found out perfumed signs of the past, I have found the meaning in my native soil.
I have reached Thelema. The magic of nature hides in the secret of words.
 Number 93 represents this journey’s mystic key.
 The smell is a soul that shapes our shadow.”

Meo Fusciuni‘s latest fragrance creation, Odor 93, is a fusion of  narcissues, sweet tuberose, balsamic extracts, smoky tobacco and elusive incense. Available soon at Concept 21 Store.  If you want to discover more about this charming, perfume poet, read my interview with him here!

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Rose of No Man’s Land

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Ben Gorham of Byredo is not only the founder of New York’s favourite perfume brand, but also a person with great aesthetic. Byredo’s fragrance bottles look always chic with their minimal labels and metaphorical names of the scents – and the latest fragrance, called Rose of No Man’s Land, is going to be their new best-selling product. The title of the perfume is a tribute to the nurses who saved thousands of lives on the front lines of WWI – and what’s interesting, the soldiers used to refer to the nurses as Rose of No Man’s Land. The scent of the perfume is sophicated, but smooth – the composition is mainly based on pink pepper, turkish rose petals, raspberry blossom and papyrus. The advertisement campaign is as refreshing as the perfume itself – natural, make-up free Freja Beha photographed by Craig McDean and M/M Paris.

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