In the Dark. Loewe AW17

March 11, 2017March 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In a completly darkened venue, Jonathan Anderson presented his autumn-winter 2017 collection. But darkness doesn’t neccesarly mean ‘dull’ for the creative director of Loewe. Quite opposite: Anderson sent down a line of sublime and feminine dresses, whether in pastel pink polka-dots or with shoulder-exposing sleeves. Then, those haphazard, yet elusive details that always catch one’s eye at a Loewe show: toast print on a hat, a kitty cat handbag. Trompe l’oeil effect in a number of his clothes was, just like the venue, an intriquing game with the viewer. “The collection is a continuation. Where will she go next? How does she survive?” If wearing a Loewe rabbit fur coat is the answer, I’m totally fine with that.

Orient. Christian Wijnants AW17

March 10, 2017March 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In his autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Christian Wijnants celebrated the idea of a world with no borders. Not being too referential about the orient, he and his in-house studio developed one-of-a-kind prints which had a lot to do with traditional paisley and Persian rugs patterns. A brilliant remix of oriental rhythms and booming beats were another clue of the designer’s inspiration. However, the styling of those flowing maxi-dresses and skirts was purely European. In bold colours of orange, green and purple, the Belgian designer focused on the technical side of his clothes: the pleats were made of polyamide to keep the silhouette, while the sweaters were of highest quality Alpaca and other yarns to satisfy a Wijnants client for years. At the Le Marais showroom, to see and touch the clothes, I’ve spotted that the python boots in yellow were the star among the buyers. No wonder why.

Christian Wijnants AW17

Backstage / showroom photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Ceremonial. Rick Owens AW17

March 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rick Owens doesn’t care, if you’re laughing at his autumn-winter 2017 abstract headpieces or distorted proportions. Although his collection looked somewhat dystopian, the designer said it was rather ceremonial – and ceremonies are important, whether we’re speaking of rituals or deeply-rooted tradition. “People are coming together to collectively pursue common goals and ideas.” Today, a fashion show might be lightly called a ceremony, too, as people coalesce and celebrate their ambitions and aspirations. But not only the headgear made the viewer gasp with confusion during Rick’s show. The collection’s eerieness has no end, just like the amount of elongated sleeves and duvet covers. It’s about wrapping, draping, layering, things that Owens does religiously, following it every season.

Melancholy. Ann Demeulemeester AW17

March 9, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

“This is a very romantic girl who mixes all her lace and old garments,” said Sébastien Meunier backstage. “She wants to go and party, but in a different mood.” If melancholic attitude in fashion really exists, then Ann Demeulemeester autumn-winter 2017 collection precisely defines it. Feather inserts and intricately embellished, lace straps; long and flowing dresses styled with veils and leather pants. Very Ann. Meunier is getting better and better with every season, respecting Demeulemeester’s codes and injecting his own, dark aesthetic.

Optimism. Chloé AW17

March 8, 2017March 8, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

First of all, happy International Woman’s Day!

Second, let’s talk about Chloé, a brand that is often defined as a woman’s favourite. Marking her last show for the brand, Clare Waight Keller wanted to convey something she does best: carefree girlieness, but with no sugar added. Her goal was to provide a sense of escapism through fashion. Feminine dresses were balanced with XXL jumpers and slouchy sweatpants. Voluminous knits with psychedelic patterns had lace skirts (or mini-dresses) peeking out of beneath, highlighting a look Clare mastered since her arrival to the French maison in 2012. She pulled off Gaby Aghion’s, the brand’s founder, signature flou like no other, while her chic collections (although at some points monotonous) matched Chloé aesthetic perfectly. And that’s not only visible in editors’ reviews, but in the brand’s sales. Hopefully, Waight Keller finds her new path, whether in Paris or London (where her fam is) – her talent for versatile fashion could be a bright future for any obsoleting brand. Optimism, which is the theme of her autumn collection, is something Clare can easily relate to, whether in the past or future.