Modern Softness. Paco Rabanne SS16

October 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena looked at the heritage of Paco Rabanne from a totally different side this season. It rather feels more him, than Rabanne. The collection is designed for a modern girl – however, it’s much more feminine than the built-up looks we’ve seen last season. The fresh, summer outing was all about the high-tech sportiness with a sense of casual sexiness. Baby doll dresses walked alongside motocross-influenced leathers; the graphical prints on tank-tops had the Native American feeling about them. Definitely, Julien introduced a more slouchy festival attitude to the brand, rather than continuing Rabanne’s futuristic strictness and rawness. The textiles are softer in comparison to the signature Paco chain-dresses and the woman reflecting the brand changed.

Freedom. Chloe SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Freedom! 90’s! – these are the ideas behind Clare Waight Keller‘s best and most succesful collection at Chloe. This collection made me suddenly love the #ChloeGirl! It’s so beautiful and carefree… and comfortable! Inspired with women who defined the 90’s, Chloe for SS16 is a powerful nod to the decade. The show-notes consisted of a list of first names: Kate, Courtney, Corinne. Kate Moss, Courtney Love, Corinne Day. These names whisper of cool Britannia: where, away from Spice Girls glam, fashion was falling in love with the imperfection of a new style of fashion photography, and an unconventional way of wearing clothes. These three women that have their influence up to now, were imagined by Waight Keller wearing silk tracksuits, boho dresses and multi-coloured sweaters.

Taking a look at the details of these very feminine clothes, you can spot sensual lace elements, light sheer textiles and lovely tassels which appeared to be drifting in the air when the models gracefully walked the runway. Also, denim’s reign is continuing. Last season, everybody was obsessed with Chloe’s denim jackets – now, the ultimately chic shorts become the most coveted item of Paris Fashion Week. Just like colourful tops. Or the slip-tops that again make us all miss favourite summer evenings. well-done, Clare.

Chateau Walk. The Row SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a common thing for luxury houses to change the locations for their fashion shows. The Row did not show in its hometown, New York, but shifted to Paris, where, as Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen explained, “many of our customers are, who we want to support. As you see, we are having a show in a chateau, 45 minutes outside Paris.” But did this major change influenced somehow the clothes? The Olsen sisters kept it close to their very American style – straight-lines and loose silhouettes looked ultimately The Row. In reality, no big deal – the designers constantly play wih their signature blanket ponchos, maxi dresses and lady-like pyjama looks. However, after seeing this collection, I have an impression that Olsen sisters want to transform The Row into the next Hermes – luxe-loafers and these croco-leather bags don’t make me think of an eponymous label anymore. Just like the serene model-walk around the chateau’s garden.

Psychedelic and Fancy. Dries Van Noten SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Psychedelic and fancy – Dries Van Noten for spring-summer 2016 is all about that. I have never expected to see anything tulle at Dries’ show – but, there is always the first time. A tulle dress was worn with denim shorts and a “dad’s” blazer. The velvet clogs gave the look a fantastic edginess. The effect? Wow, I thought. The rest of the collection, which nearly contained all textiles of the world, from brocade and mohair to silk and jacquard, was bold and based on all-time favourites of the brand. The clothes were somewhere between the feminine zone and masculine basics. Over-sized denim flares looked effortlessly cool with these beautifully embroidered coats while the patterned turlenecks and tights gave each outfit an unconventional touch. Even though the collection of this Belgian designer might make your eyes feel pain due to all that colour, the collection seems to have a lot of highly desirable pieces.

Effective Basics. Lemaire SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lemaire and his woman are seasonless. Her wardrobe is built from basic, but high-quality pieces, like a hearty leather coat, a pair of high-waisted flares and open-toe heels. She doesn’t care about trends – she puts on her scarf in a non-chalant way and feels easy, comfortable and chic. And that’s precisely what Christophe Lemaire‘s simple, but effective fashion is all about.