Ridiculous. Maison Margiela SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

After few collections presented by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, I have a clear opinion on him – he is not the same Galliano we knew at Dior. The spirit of that Galliano seems to be tamed by the idea of conceptualism that is constantly imposed by Margiela’s codes. It’s visible he tries hard to make Maison Margiela an enigmatic and elusive brand – but his other side of a show-man just doesn’t let it go. Drama queen dresses, transparent baggy dresses, bee-hive hairstyles… even the artisanal textiles he uses don’t look high-end, but rather like from one of London’s fashion student graduation collection. Also, the whole idea of gender-fusing seems to be not that fresh as Galliano and Margiela’s studio thought when the did the show’s casting. Men wearing fish-net tops and high-waisted skirts? So Eckhaus Latta. And, of course, the most ridiculous thing about the entire collection – the bags tied with obi knots to the model’s back. When you don’t have any other idea how to make a show amusing, you do this type of thing. And call it pret-a-couture or something alike.

Child’s Sadness. Jacquemus SS16

October 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Every collection is a new story for Simon Porte Jacquemus, the designer behind Paris’ favourite label – Jacquemus. This collection, however, is different from all. The Jacquemus girl used to be a cheerful Frenchie from Marseilles, wearing over-sized tops and striped pantaloons. This season, this girl is not that smiley anymore. In the dreamlike theatre that Simone prepared, the whole mood felt rather melancholic, and very poetic. The whole “performance” felt kind of psychodramatic, as a young child (the designer’s cousin, Jean) pushed a large, red ball of fabric across the stage, and Jacquemus himself appeared, leading a white horse. Then, the models came out, wearing signature, very-Jacquemus colour-block dresses and shape-deconstructing coats.

“We know me for my smile and my sunshine and my (love of the) seaside,” Jacquemus said, reflecting on his fashion that we know from the past seasons. Also, he admitted that the atmosphere of this season was different. “The girl was not dark, she was quite fresh – but you can see a little tiny bit, I tried to have this kind of sadness.” The name of the collection, Le Nez Rouge, means the red nose – but also, it reminded Simon about his childhood illness that caused his nose to be constantly red. Childhood memories and the whole idea of naive is from the very beginning present in Jacquemus’ career, and this show had it too. As the designer is just 25, won the second LVMH Prize Award and has more and more buyers in his Parisian showroom each season, it seems that the pressure is pretty high for him – but, Jacquemus just won’t entirely grow up. Even though this collection is much more mature than the humour accompanying the last season’s collection.

Parisian Woman. Anthony Vaccarello SS16

October 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Anthont Vaccarello‘s spring-summer 2016 collection was not only the hottest of all, but also the most descriptive in terms of a Parisian woman, who parties at night-clubs and eats her all-time favourite steak at Hotel Costes. Femme fatale shirts played an important role in the collection – worn with black ties, they looked utterly chic. Just like the cut-out skirts that gave the guests some legs. The second part of the collection was devoted to the Polish top-model, Anja Rubik, who is Anthony’s muse and friend. Her bold, characteristic face appeared in form of pixeled prints on tank-tops and dresses, making the collection sharp and graphic. The looks that closed the show, however, were much more casual. Anthony experimented with denim (a quiet nod to his Versus Versace collaboration) and exposure. The mini-skirts made the models look fierce and with attitude. Although you might say that Vaccarello revisits the Parisian chic cliché (google Emmanuelle Alt), you must admit – he does that in a bon way!

Men’s – Kurt. Saint Laurent SS16

July 2, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kurt Cobain. Courtney Love. These two names were audible during the recent Saint Laurent collection by Hedi Slimane. Hedi is famous for making crap looking clothes super expensive, but this time he went too far – the wardrobe for his SS16 men and Resort 2016 women is having a lot in common with today’s teenagers which fancy skating, alcohol and wild parties. And, Kurt Cobain eternal messy style, which might be cool only if its natural. Ripped denim (which looked so tattered that I nearly thought they were taken from a “too cool for school” person); every 14 year old’s must have chokers; chunky, slouchy cardigans. The worst? The styling, or rather lack of any styling. This what Hedi does now at Saint Laurent is purely about giving people back their clothes from adolescence , but in extreme prices. Is it fashion? Is it style? I suppose not.

Men’s – Need For Speed. Loewe SS16

June 28, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson definitely had a blast during his last trip to Asia. In a Hong Kong antique shop, he found an early 18th-century screen from Japan—koi jumping over waves—that he thought looked so modern, it influenced him and his next collection. Loewe SS16 came from attempts of gathering something old and something new – tradition, culture and innovation, technology. That’s why there was a fuse of leather, which is Loewe’s heritage, and manga prints which are usually thought of as futuristic. But also, a topic of fast cars was moved and that is clearly visible on the bags and trousers. Not everything is totally clear in here, but with this collection Anderson proves he is the designer of tomorrow – looking forward to the following day, but not forgetting about the past.