American Paris. Anthony Vaccarello AW15

March 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Anthony went to LA and thought it’s right to put Americana into the latest collection. Unfortunately, this collection reminds me of Rodarte’s trashy sequined mini-dresses or Saint Lauren’t rock & roll opulence rather than Vaccarello’s cool allure. The leather dresses were appliqued with metal stars and studs. Except black, we could also spot suede. But in reality, not only this collection didn’t bring anything new – it was a perfect cliche. Anthony, please let Hedi Slimane do the American-inspired thing in Paris. Hopefully, the cliche mood won’t stay for long in here.

Understated Luxury. Hermes SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was the last season of Christophe Lemaire at Hermes- and surely, it really was worth an applause. The understated luxury, traveler chic and the elegant style is everything that Lemaire achieved at Hermes and continues in his own, name-sake, brand. Cream and white layers in alligator printed suede, oversized Hermès prints blown up on belted in scarf dresses and loose silken separates in dusky pink and golden yellow all summed up the sense of freeing ease that Lemaire imbued on the house. These clothes don’t need bells and whistles and neither does the house when you have an arsenal of fine fabrications. But who is next at Hermes? It’s Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, which comes to the house with experience from The Row and Celine. In other words, it’s surely going to be a match in heaven. However I will still miss Christophe Lemaire at this French, super strong house.

By the way… it’s the last “reviewed” collection from SS15 by me. This season was beautiful. Can’t wait what the designers will show in the next half of the year!

Bad Girls. Miu Miu SS15

October 5, 2014October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The 50’s bad girls went down the runway at Miu Miu SS15 show… with their eyebrows to match. cropped tops, bustiers, checks, pencil skirts, pastel coats and kitten heels- those are the Miu Miu girl attributes. The silhouette was Miuccia’s well-versed version of the housecoat, the pencil skirt and the ruffled prettiness up on top. Miuccia had them trussed up in finery – 18th century style floral silk and cloqué, counter balanced with fraying wool check and murky shades of leather. Lady goes vamp. Tarts and vicars. Runaway girls. They don’t give a damn about their ex boyfriend. They keep up together and get high together, but in style and chic.

Time Travel. Louis Vuitton SS15

October 5, 2014October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Fondation Louis Vuitton, Frank Gehry’s new masterpiece, was gleaming above the Bois de Boulogne in the October sun. And here, also, the third Louis Vuitton show was held under creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquiere. It was literally a time travel. Sci-fi movie. Big, cyborg platforms with youthful faces speaking in unison lines that had been lifted and modified from the 1984 David Lynch film, Dune: “A beginning is a very delicate time…Day zero in the heart of the project, code-named GEHRY014…A ship surrounded by a gigantic woodland, a ship made up of 3,600 glass panels and 15,000 tons of steel, a ship that serves as an incubator and ignites our fellow creative minds…Oh, yes, I forgot to tell you, today, October 1, the LV house wants to explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving. The journey starts here.” We know already from Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga times, that he loves science-fiction. But that was major. That was the start. First looks were all about folklore knits. Then, sharp denim. Modernistic dresses. Floral collages. Fun with LV logo. “No rupture with last season,” Ghesquière said afterward. “It’s still a wardrobe, it’s about an instinctive mix.” Indeed there was a mix of wearable and couture-ish vibe. But it was totally Nicolas Ghesquiere. What are your thoughts about the show?

Japan Noir. Alexander McQueen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen brings new mood to the brand- Japan and it’s more sensual, darker site. So what we saw? Leather kimono coats with embroidered florals; super high shoes without heels (you know, Daphne Guiness); the models walked with faces encircled in black lacquer frames, courtesy of the ingenious makeup-ist Pat McGrath; everything was tightly belt-up and strengthen up with harness bustiers. So now wonder why Sarah thought of Japan this season. After he travel to this beautiful country full of cherry-blossom trees and traditional Ryokan houses, she created a sexy, but mindful collection. There was a maniacal attention to detail in the pearls that seeded the flowers on a skirt of ruffled chiffon, but it would be pleasing to think that this collection represented a new perspective for Burton. At least the history here was truly personal—or as personal as that grab bag of her souvenirs from her Japanese trips. And the face-off between geisha and samurai would seem like the very embodiment of the savage beauty that nestles at the dark heart of Alexander McQueen.